I’ve been wanting to write this post for a while. First, because I get a lot of questions about it. And secondly, because I think many people assume that wax is the only option for sealing chalk painted furniture.
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Before I get into it, I do want to say there’s nothing wrong with sealing furniture with wax. If you’re a fan of a waxed finish, you should go with it. Seriously, I’m all for everyone choosing whatever products work best for them. I simply think many new painters don’t realize they have a choice when it comes to deciding what works best for them when sealing chalk paint. I know I didn’t when I first started. When I bought my first can of chalk paint the lady selling it said I needed wax too. So I bought a can of wax and used it to seal every piece I painted. I didn’t know I had options.
After a while, I started getting really frustrated with the low durability of a waxed finish. I was worried I was selling furniture with a subpar finish, and I certainly didn’t like how easily the pieces I painted for my own home were getting marked up. I started testing different top coats and found a couple really great options that are much stronger than wax and they’re now my go-to choices for sealing furniture.
Here are the reasons why I rarely use wax to seal furniture
It’s not permanent
Honestly, I could just stop right here because this is enough for me to not use it. Raise your hand if you want to finish a piece of furniture then have to go back every few months or even once a year to apply another coat of wax. Anyone? No? Yeah, me neither. Once I’m done with a piece I want to be DONE. I don’t have the time or desire to re-wax it. Not to mention the pieces we sell. I don’t want to sell furniture to a customer who has no idea they will need to occasionally re-wax it.
It’s not strong enough
Wax is what I would consider a low durability finish. It’s perfectly fine for a decorative piece that will get little to no traffic. It is absolutely not strong enough for dining tables, kitchen cabinets, or any other surface that will see frequent use. I see so many people who sell a chalk paint and wax line say that wax is perfect for sealing kitchen cabinets and it drives me batty. I will bet my left foot if you paint your cabinets, or anything else in your kitchen for that matter, and seal it with wax you’ll end up regretting it. So I’m saying it again: wax is not a good choice for sealing cabinets. Need proof? Read this.
It can be hard to apply
Applying wax correctly takes practice. And a lot of elbow grease. And a special brush. (Ok, technically you don’t have to have a special brush. But it’s even harder to apply correctly without one). Most people put it on too thick when they’re first starting out. And until you’ve done it a few times it can be really hard to know if you’re doing it right.
You can’t apply anything over top of it
Did you seal a piece of furniture with wax a few years ago and now you want to repaint it? Oh, sorry, you have to remove all the wax first. Change your mind about the waxed finish and want to seal it with something stronger? Sorry again. You have to remove the wax first. There is an exception to this rule: some chalk paint manufacturers say their paint will adhere to wax once it’s cured. Annie Sloan is one brand who claims their chalk paint can be used over their own brand of wax, and I have done this myself with success. Unless you’re using a brand that specifically states you can paint over their wax, you cannot apply any other product over a waxed surface and expect lasting results. In general, wax is not a stable enough base for other paints and sealers to adhere to.
So is there anything good about a waxed finish?
Of course! It has a beautiful, soft matte look that’s really pretty. It will not yellow and provides minor protection for painted furniture. You can also use dark or colored waxes to create depth and detail on your pieces (see the update below for more info on this!).
Have I got you thinking about experimenting with other sealers? Good!
There are a ton of different options out there and I haven’t tried even a fraction of them. My go-to favorite is General Finishes High Performance Water Based Top Coat . I’ve also used Rust-Oleum Varathane Crystal Clear Water-Based Polyurethane with success. Both are easy to use, easy cleanup, non-yellowing, and in my opinion, provide a more durable, longer lasting finish than wax. (Update: One top coat that’s been mentioned many times in the comments is Artisan Enhancements. I haven’t used this product myself but it’s got a 5-star rating from everyone who’s mentioned it).
Is there any downside to using a poly?
There is a potential downside to a poly finish that isn’t an issue with wax. Poly topcoats can sometimes pull tannins from the wood through the porous chalk paint, creating yellowish (or sometimes pink) spots. This doesn’t always happen, but when it does it’s almost always with white or very light paint. There’s a short article with more info on this issue here. To prevent this, I always use a primer under white/light paint. Wax doesn’t react with the wood the same way a poly does, which is why this doesn’t happen with wax.
No one product is perfect, and you really just have to weigh the pros and cons and pick the products that work best for you and your project.
Now I want to hear from you!
What are your thoughts on a waxed finish? Do you have a favorite product for sealing chalk paint that I didn’t mention? Leave your experience in the comment section below. I want readers who find this article to have multiple points of view, not just mine. Hopefully, we can all learn from each other and find new products to experiment with.
Side note: This is not a sponsored post. I received no compensation or incentive to write this or to mention any specific products. I’m simply sharing my personal thoughts and some of the products I purchase and use myself. My goal is to create a space for fellow painters to share info and experiences, and feel comfortable sharing what works for them and what doesn’t.
UPDATE 1/11/18: I get a lot of questions about creating a look similar to what you would get with dark wax without using wax. I use two alternate methods to create an aged look without wax. The first is to use a glaze. You can purchase premixed dark glaze from several different paint manufacturers. (Here’s a link to Fusion Mineral Paint dark glaze. There’s a video included if you’d like to get an idea what a dark glaze looks like over white paint). Or, you can purchase a can of clear, tintable glaze at almost any hardware store. Mix any color of paint or stain in to create your own custom glaze color. I always poly over the glaze, and you can also opt to poly under the glaze as well to have greater control over the glaze and keep it from staining the porous chalk paint as easily. (More articles/details on glazing furniture are coming soon!) The second method is to do a paint wash, as explained in this article. Whether you decide to use one of these methods or something else entirely, I always suggest practicing on a piece of scrap wood before painting an entire piece of furniture so you know exactly how the products will work together.
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More From Canary Street:
When To Prep Before Chalk Paint
How To Paint Custom Graphics On Furniture Like A Pro
I agree about the wax. Can you only purchase the sealers you like online? The biggest issue is yellowing. Thanks, Mart
Hi Mary! I buy the general finishes sealer at a local Woodcraft store and the Home Depot near me carries the Varathane sealer. You shouldn’t have a yellowing issue with either of those products, however I know if you painted a piece that’s prone to bleeding and didn’t prime it first, the sealer can occasionally (rarely) draw out the wood tannins and make it look a bit yellow. There’s also a rare issue with the sealer absorbing into the chalk paint so quickly that it could look streaky. This happens because chalk paint is so porous. I use these products on almost every piece I paint though and very rarely have any issue.
Have you tried modern masters dead flat varnish? I use the exterior one and so far no yellowing and extremely easy to apply and dries quickly.
I’ve been happy with it so far!
Where do you buy it?
I painted a night stand (drawers and bottom) with white chalk paint and stained the top with a Rustoleum dark brown stain. Should I put anything over the stain to help it last longer?
This has been my go-to for a couple of years. Worth every penny!
Since you’ve been using this product for years, I was wondering if the pieces you painted still show no signs of yellowing?
I love that product. But it is DEAD FLAT. No shine at all. Which I happen to love. Depending on the look and feel of the decor But… Some pieces do call for as slight shine finish
Hi Marianne – I have the same ‘frame of mind’ as Canary Street about wax and another option – I tend to use Polyvine Satin Varnish on most of my furniture – this does have a ‘sheen’ on it but not ‘glossy’ although they do sell the Matt, Glossy and Satin finishes. I have been painting furniture etc for about 20 odd years and you do not get any yellowing through or ‘tanins’ – I would certainly recommend this. You can find it here :- http://www.polyvine.com/index.php/en/varnishes/water-based-varnishes/decorators-varnish
I Also use the one in the blue packaging and only purchase 500ml at a time as it goes a really long way – you can purchase that here 🙂 https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=polvine+decorators+varnish+
Have fun 🙂
Of course you should. It needs a clear coat at the least. Strange that it wasn’t recommended on the back of the can of stain.Annie Sloan has the best products. Waxing is easy. I use a l8nt free rag and apply it quickly, rubbing in circles. There is no more of a beautiful product out there in my opinion.
Yes, love the dead flat farnish. Looks like a smooth velvet finish. I have only found it on line though.
Where do you put purchase this
I also agree with your points on wax. Perfect timing for I am using General Finishes gel stain on an old dresser turned vanity for a client and have been a little concerned about which topcoat to use. More so because it’s goung to be in a bathroom. What would you use over the gf stain in this case? Anything?
You definitely want to use something. GF gel stain needs to be sealed. GF has a gel top coat that works great over their gel stains. It’s not waterproof though (only water resistant) so it wouldn’t be my choice for a bathroom vanity. I’ve never used Waterlox but have heard good reviews and I believe it’s waterproof. If it were me I would look into Waterlox or another sealer that will stand up to frequent water contact. Hope that helps!
Waterlox is great! I have used it on my kitchen counter tops, stair treads, and several pieces of furniture. Apply with clean Cotten tshirt and the only. As thing I have found about it is the smell. And I have not had any yellowing issues with it at all.
I’ve heard fantastic things about Waterlox!
We used waterlox on our pine floors 2 years ago. The product seals great! However, the area under the are rug remained the same lighter color. The rest of the floors darkened over time.
Hi Lee,
Can you use Waterlox over GF topcoats? That is what I just did on my bathroom vanity.
I would like to try Waterlox. I use the Anne Sloan wax after chalk painting and so far I’m pleased with it. I put 3 coats of the wax and it seals the paint great! I do not like seeing fingerprints on the furniture though and I do notice this with the wax until it’s cured at least 30 days.
Can the waterlox be used over the GF topcoat?
Just used Waterlox on my kitchen counters over bare wood! I love the product, but it has to dry 24 hours between coats! I’m not sure how it would do over the chalk paint but I’m going to try it on a piece I’m doing over AS graphite! I’ll keep you posted on the results! Thanks for the info!
I’m really interested to hear how it does over chalk paint. Glad it worked well on your countertops too! Thanks so much for letting us know, Pam!
How did the Waterloo do on your chalk paint project? I have redone a whole dining room set in raw silk mineral paint but would like a bit of a gloss but don’t know what to use it’s like antique white.
I’m a little late to this game, but Waterlox would not be a good choice over any kind of paint. Not because it isn’t a fantastic finish, but because it is formulated from resin and tung oil and will definitely change the color of your paint, and because it is formulated to soak into the wood and build upon itself. It’s got a light amber hue out of the can that doesn’t go away. I redid my floors a couple years ago with Waterlox, as well as my kitchen island. I LOVE LOVE LOVE the Waterlox finish on both my floors and island. But I did get some Waterlox on the walls going up my stairs. Very definitely discolored the wall paint and I had to touch up.
It took five coats on my pine floors (and really, I could have used another) and 6 on my island. The first few coats, I wondered if it would live up to the hype because it just soaked into the wood. Around coat four is when the magic started to happen.
Waterlox is great on bare wood, or stained wood, but not on painted surfaces.
Thank you for sharing that info, Lori!!
Hi Amy, just reading your comment about the tannins in the wood causing the yellowing. I wish the store that sold me my chalk paint had prepared me for that reaction. My husband and I had a project to disassemble our old piano and turn it into a bar/ coffee bar. It was such a fun project and it looks amazing. The chalk paint (vintage white colour) applied really well and being a large piece of furniture I decided to seal it with a water base sealer instead of wax. As it dried I was horrified to watch my lovely white paint turn a dirty yellow particularly around the intricate wood etching. There really was nothing I could do about it, but now that its finished with decorative pieces on it, its actually made the piano look old and rustic.
Even though you don’t necessarily need to prime wood before chalk paint, I should have in this instant being an old piece with old varnish. Thanks for your post on this.
On older furniture especially darker types like mahogany I always apply a coat of zinsser bull’s eye shellac before I paint to seal the furniture and I have never had an issue with tannins bleeding through.
I tried shellac with white chalk paint and it yellowed. Then I was told never use shellac with chalk paint. Now I don’t know what to do.
Did you use the shellac as a primer or a sealer? It does yellow as a sealer but I use it all the time as a primer under chalk paint.
I used it as a primer
Hmm.. I wish I knew why you had yellowing! I’m not convinced it was caused by the shellac. Most chalk paint brands recommend it as a good primer to use with chalk paint and I’ve used it many times without issue. I have run into some pieces that are just really stubborn bleeders and will bleed yellow or pink right through the shellac. If it was splotchy yellow bleeding, my guess is that’s the case. I’ve found several coats of Zinsser BIN (also shellac based) to do the best job of sealing the tannins in. If the entire piece yellowed evenly after you sealed it my guess is it was caused by the sealer.
Maybe because I used it on bright white
What did you seal with?
Wax
Well that’s definitely not the culprit. I think you’re right that it was just the bright white paint. It tends to yellow very easily when other colors do not. I’m assuming you used AS products. If so, you can let the wax cure for a few weeks then paint right over it. My guess is the yellowing won’t work it’s way through the wax layer and into your fresh paint, but I’d give it a few days before sealing to be sure. So frustrating for you to be done with a piece and have it yellow like that! Hope you’re able to fix it easily, Terri!
I love Bungalow 47 Clear Finish. It doesn’t yellow with white paint.
To keep a bright white color I seal chalk paint with matte clear spray coating by rustoleum. I realize that it takes longer to get the perfectly even coverage (because the chalk absorbs some of the top coat) but it works! Protects against wine spills
You can actually use a stain blocker or shellac on the stains and re-paint far easier.
Definitely, Angie! Great advice!
Thank you so much for this article. It is the solution I have searched for!! I am so happy to know there are options.
So glad you found it helpful, Sarah!
Hi,
Thanks for the article! I have a question maybe you can help with. I love how dark wax deepens some paint colors and gives definition to wood carvings, but I also want a tough top coat. Is anything recommended for use over wax for tough top coat? So far I’m bummed I can’t have durability and antiqued look. Help!
Unfortunately you can’t apply another top coat over wax. It just won’t adhere correctly. You can use a dark glaze to get a looks that’s similar to dark wax. The glaze acts as a sealer itself but I always poly over it for added durability.
Or you could use a water based poly over the paint AND THEN apply the dark wax over that. The wax coat will eventually dissipate over time with use, but because the poly is under it, the wear won’t effect the paint.
I that’s great advise . I have done that on my table top and two area just won’t take the glazes peggy . Ever time I go to wipe of it wipes all of it off . I’m not sure why those two area will not grap the glaze
Wallmart dark wax is pretty darn tough…I used it on my stairs with no problem so far. Polyvine is a flat finish I love when not using wax. Amazon carries it. I still love wax. But my favorites are Waverly from wallmart and Home Depot. I did not like Ann Sloan wax . I love the chalk paint…but waverly Chalk paint is great too.
I haven’t used Waverly yet. Thanks for the recommendation! I’ll try it out.
I’m new to chalk painting and just bought some cashew chalk paint by Waverly. So far so good
I am new at Chalk paint. As a long time painter, not sure if I like it. Got both waverly & Chalk Mountain. I don’t see any difference, but not so happy with the CM wax! Put on very little, I have wiped it down 3 times and it’s been 3 days, still not dry… Wish I sealed it instead.
Some waxes will never “dry”…if you don’t completely buff them off, they well remain tacky. The brand I sold was water-based and not designed to be a sealer…they promoted an additional sealer as a final step.
I have to agree that waxes, even oil based ones, do not seal a chalk paint finish. It was difficult to “sell” it when I really didn’t believe in it!
I haven’t seen Little Billy Goat mentioned here. It’s a great chalk paint so easy to use. Check it out. http://littlebillygoat.com/
I hadn’t heard of that brand, thanks for the suggestion!
I use Waverly chalk paint, wax, and varnish. I also like the look the dark wax gives the paint. I experimented with the finishes and applied the Waverly varnish over the dark waxed finish. It was very successful. I had no problem with it adhering to the wax. Tried it on many different pieces with success. You get the look you want with a longer lasting, stronger finish. Try it! Worked for me.
There is now a clear topcoat sealer which can be applied over wax! Check out Artisan Enhancements by Aloha Coatings. I recently applied this after I chalk painted and waxed the top of a dining room table. It turned out beautifully and was very easy to use.
Love your posts!
I have used Vintage Market and Designs chalk paints, glazes a waxes and I like them a lot they do have a top coat that seals wax and it works great. This is a video to link on how to use it.
I had been using Artisan Enhancements for the last 3-4 years in lieu of wax and I loved it. No brush marks, it did yellow slightly over white and old white but nothing to drastic. I just did a commission piece and I won’t work with it ever again, it seems as if the formula has changed or something, no matter what I did there were brush strokes. It yellowed horribly, it was drying before I could move the brush away from I had laid it down. I recently found General Finishes pre-mixed milk paint, chalk paint and flat flat out varnish. The store had pieces done all over in their shop and they said all of the the products were a dream to work with. I am on mission to do something I own, and quickly, so that I have another avenue for my painted commission pieces.
Has anyone else been successful putting a sealer over white paint after one coat of wax? I just finished waxing dining chairs and am now horrified I made the wrong choice. Is it too late to put a sealer on that won’t yellow?
There’s a sealer by Artisan Enhancements that’s made to go over wax. I haven’t used it myself but have heard great reviews about it and it’s not supposed to yellow.
Hi there, this was so informative,thank you! but I am having so much trouble with streaking. Tried lint free rag , China brush and diluting the polyurethane to. 50/50 water ratio. Please help:/
Sometimes because chalk paint is so porous it can suck up the sealer quickly and cause the finish to look uneven. Usually the fix for that is to thin the water-based top coat with a little water, but you’ve already tried that. I’m going to guess you’re making sure not brush over the same area multiple times, since this could cause streaking if the product has started to dry a bit. It sounds like you’re doing everything right, so this is stumping me. What brand of sealer are you using?
Good morning, I am using satin Varathane polyurethane crystal clear . Thank you for the quick response 🙂
How do you apply it. Can I use lint free rag.I’m afraid that a brush will leave little bubbles and dry that way?
I use a foam brush to apply and haven’t had issues with air bubbles.
Hello! First time chalk painter here! I did my guest bathroom vanity with chalk paint just yesterday and although it covered really well over the wood — it is quite “grainy” and rough to the touch. I thought wax would take care of that — will the other finishes do that too?
Wax and/or a poly top coat probably won’t smooth out a rough finish. Try giving it a light sanding with find grit sandpaper. If it’s still not as smooth as you’d like you can do another coat of paint over top with paint that’s been thinned out a bit with water.
If you use a really good primer and use two coats of Zinsser Stain Blocker and then if using chalk paint – water it down – not too much – so when you go backwards and forwards with your brush it will not dry too quickly – I would also recommend 2 coats of ASP and with the first coat of varnish you should also slightly water down and then put at least another 2 coats on (not watered down) – on top of that – then you should not get any streaking, lines or anything – you should get a ‘perfect finish’. I would also recommend using a ‘good’ brush and/or roller
You do lots of base coats. why?
I am not sure where to comment. I do a lot of painting with several brands of chalk paint. Seal with Annie Sloan clear and black wax TheN use a water based poly – two coats – it adheres perfectly and beautifies the finish. In fact, if I skip the wax, I have problems with the poly streaking. I also add flotrol to the water based poly to extend the working time.
That’s really interesting, Lori! Every brand of poly I’ve used specifically says not to use over wax as it won’t adhere properly. I’ve even emailed a couple of them and they all say it’s not recommended. I admit I’ve never tried it myself though, and I’m really intrigued but the good results you get! I’ll have to experiment with it based on your review. Thanks so much for weighing in!
I did something similar with bar stools that I chalk painted. After I waxed with Annie Sloan soft wax I applied General Finishes flat topcoat over the chalk paint on the rungs of the chairs. I thought they would get a lot of wear with people putting their feet on them. You can’t tell the difference when looking at them and there isn’t any sign of wear.
Thank you for all the info! My question is do you have to use a sealer? I did use chalk paint from Home Depot and found it easy to use but some areas are yellowing can I paint over it will it still yellow thru?
It will probably still yellow through if you do another layer of paint. I would do a couple coats of primer right over the existing paint, paint again, then seal :).
I wish I had came across your site earlier. I’ve never used chalk paint before and just purchased AS graphite and black wax to redo 12 dining chairs so I am thinking I have made a big mistake. I have 9 grandchildren all 10 and under so these chairs will get a lot of use. So is it OK once the wax has set for a few days to coat with a water based poly coat too. Lori & Mari seem to both agree that it can work. I was told at the store that in order to get the depth and dark colour I want I have to use the black wax, not realizing it isn’t very durable. I’m wondering now if I should just return the AS supplies and go with a latex and poly. I would hate to put all that work into the project (I’m rehupolstering the seats with an indoor/outdoor fabric) to find out later that the paint just doesn’t hold up. Thank you so much for any advice you can offer.
Every poly I’ve come across cautions against applying it over wax. I even contacted a couple manufacturers including General finishes and they said their poly won’t adhere properly to a waxed surface. I’m not saying it isn’t possible that it could work fine, it’s just not something I do myself for the reasons above. If you’re looking for a black paint, I would personally choose a brand that has the color I want instead of trying to make AS graphite work. One paint line I’m really liking lately is Fusion mineral paint and they have a black color. A black latex paint would work great too. I hope that helps a bit and apologize it took me a few days to respond! If you have any other questions don’t hesitate to message me :).
Was wondering, could you wax over the poly to get a durable finish with the look of wax?
You could. But your top surface will still have potential to get marked up and have all the downfalls of using wax. So even though the paint underneath will look great, to the eye you won’t be able to tell because the top layer could still look a mess. And I’m not sure the wax would adhere as nicely as it does on straight chalk paint. CP is extremely porous and the wax sort of pulls into it. You won’t get that same bond when using it over poly.
I discovered that the best black, highest pigment is real black Chalkboard paint which I seal with polyurethane for high humidity high wear areas. I use wax for light uses. When I do chairs, especially complicated ones, I spray paint! Always looking for easier lol!
What about a black latex paint on cabinets?
Hi I’m in the middle of doing my whole dining room set in mineral paint I used raw silk (antique white) so far chais and bottom of table are done need to do china cabinet curio cabinet and a side bar the top of table of sidebar will be stained but the chairs I used black wax to enhance the flowers on back of chairs china cabinet has as well but going to use everyday as dining kitchen table is there a sealer that I can use for sure that won’t yellow I’m scared to try
I work in a paint department of an Ace Hardware and I would not use a latex paint on cabinets. It takes latex approx. 30 days to cure on wood, and when using a dark color, most of the ingredients is tint which take a long, long time to dry and cure. I love using General Finishes Milk Paint (this is not traditional milk paint) it is an acrylic based furniture paint, and they have a true black. I use this brand of paint for furniture more often than chalk paint anymore, and their top coats also!
Hi Lori,
I’m intreauged with the wax then seal tequnique. That sounds like the bast of all finishes. Do you have any of the peices? How has the fisish held up over time? I have never chalk painted before. I have remodled several kitchens with old cabnets using oil based paint, sanding between each coat of paint, thinning each additional coat of paint, etc etc. Each project has held up and continures to be beautiful. The chalk paint is a new project, I love the idea of the wax but have been wondering as I’m doing this about the permant finish. I am happy to read your input.
I’m new to this chalk painting/waxing, so I’m wondering if your adversity to using wax on furniture also includes the dark wax used to get the antique look? Can I still use that and then put a clear varnish mentioned above over that? Thank you
You’ll have the same issues with dark wax, and unfortunately you can’t poly over wax. I typically use a glaze in place of dark wax. You can find some pre-mixed glazes from different paint retailers, or you can make your own by purchasing a clear, tintable glaze from the hardware store and mixing your own paint or stain in. To use the glaze, I paint it on then wipe off the excess. You can use a damp rag to wipe off even more. It has a very similar look to dark wax. The glaze itself acts as a sealer but I always poly over it for added protection. Hope that helps!
Can I put these sealers over wax?
Hi Bobbi! Per the manufacturer, no. They say the poly will not adhere properly to wax. But several people have commented that they do it and get great results. I’ve never tried it myself.
I’m so glad I seen this as I have chalk painted a sideboard but haven’t got around to sealing it yet. I didn’t think the wax would be strong enough for my item but was reluctant to use varnish. Thankfully I seen your post so adding to my pinterest for others to see. I intend to use one of the items you recommend, Thank you so much for sharing.
I have a beautiful dining table I had built and used the wax finish method. It’s horrible and I don’t know what to do. Every glassbset on the table has left a ring. Should I sand down to wood and start over. It was very expensive and looks old and horrible. Please advise. Myshoeshop@sbcglobal.net
Hi Jolene! So sorry I’m just seeing your comment. You can absolutely sand it down to wood and start over. That would ensure you eliminate any current issues and give you a clean slate. If it’s just the wax that’s an issue you could try stripping it with mineral spirits, giving it a thorough cleaning to remove any residue then throw a fresh coat of paint on it and seal. It’s so frustrating to put hours into something and have it all marked up like that!
I use polycrylic by minwax. It’s water based and doesn’t yellow. It’s my go to for painted finishes.
I have used Rustoleum Java glaze over some furniture pieces I have painted with great results. The glaze has a light sheen and once it dries I use the wax to seal. I haven’t had any problems with the furniture scratching easily so far.
thank you for this. I couldn’t agree more about the wax. What is the best way to remove the wax without damaging all the beautiful work below it. I finished a beautiful piece with chalk paint and want to change wax to a more permanent finish.
Mineral spirits will strip the wax and shouldn’t damage the paint underneath. You’ll need a lot of clean cloths as the wax builds up on them quickly. Cut up old T-shirts work well!
In total agreement. Even though I never use chalk paint too expensive, too much work and overrated, I do have a favorite poly I use. Why? One coat, water based easy clean up and quick dry. A win win. Minwax 32-fl oz Satin Water-Based Polyurethane
Thank you for this article… I have never used wax due to always feeling like it would never give me the protection I want. I have used polyurethane for years. I use the spray unless it is a high traffic area, then I use the liquid. And to the reader who said chalk paint is overrated, I make my own with plaster of paris in a blender or with a mixer. I think it is the best thing since chewing gum! Thank you for this article! I shared it with my daughter. Angela
Yes. Agree!
You can make any paint into chalk paint by adding either plaster of paris or cornstarch. Then add water to desired thickness. There should be more descriptive ways to make it on pintrest. Cheap that way. They can color match any color too
I use to make all my paints that way but you need to be super vigilant about capping or you have a block of cement as you can never get it as smooth. For a craft project OK but I am thinking not for good furniture.
PIY Paints has a new line called PIY Complete. Perfect for kitchen cupboard! First I TSP, don’t rinse, then paint. This paint contains the sealer as well. I love this paint (disclosure I sell it and it is out of Merritt, B.C. Canada). It has good coverage and by the next day, using this method you cannot scratch. It is not meant to be distressed; for that I use the the regular chalk style paint and glaze , then polyurethane on cupboards.
I too think chalk paint is overrated. I’ve used it but find I can achieve the look I want with paint. For painted surfaces I use polycrylic by minwax. It’s a great product.
I totally agree with you. I Love Chalk Paint and have used many different brands, from the high end to the low and they all have their plusses and their negatives. And like you I waxed and have had to re-wax, which is something I did not sign up for!
I have also been experimenting with new options. But Like You I am done with the Wax.
I’m a first time chalk paint user and did not realize you had to rewax from time to time. How do you remove the wax to resell with something else? Please help.
You can remove the wax by sanding it off or removing it with mineral spirits and lots of clean rags. If you’re using a brand of wax/paint that allows you to paint over it once cured you could also take that route.
But the mineral spirits will remove the chalk paint too, right?
I just found this article after I used the wax finish on a bedroom dresser, and now I’m worried it won’t last. Although I don’t use the top too much, except for a TV and some pictures.
It shouldn’t, but it’s possible it could pull up some of the paint. If you’re not sure you want to remove the wax but want to a stronger sealer, look into Artesan Enhancements. They have a clear top coat that’s made to be used over wax. I haven’t used it myself but have heard all good things from people who’ve used it.
The only sealant apart from wax that Ive used is ‘Frenchie Finishing Coat’.
I toohave had problems with yellowing… I’m going to look for General Finishes!
I agree with you, after chalk painting my wood fireplace white & waxing it i was very disappointed as it chipped & marked after only a few months, ive since repainted over it though & had no problem, water based products dont yellow i believe its oil based products that cause yellowing x
If you have used wax and want a better seal how do you get the wax off?
Maybe it’s the brand of wax? My husband uses Liberon wax and it wears like iron. He refinished our dining/kitchen room table about 10 yrs ago. It’s seen hard wear ie 2 moves, dining room table/ potting bench/ craft table , grandkids etc etc etc. I’ve never re-waxed it and the finish is still perfect. It’s solvent based though, maybe what you use isn’t?
Hi, I painted my kitchen table with Annie Sloan chalk paint and sealed it with with AS wax. However I have to agree with you whenever you say that the wax isn’t a durable finish. It marked very easily and after a short time the table looked very grubby, so just the other day I applied more paint and more wax but I know that in a couple of weeks it will look as bad as before.
Could I use the sealers you mentioned on top of my already painted and waxed table. Thanks, Maureen
AS says you can paint over her wax once it’s fully cured using her own brand of chalk paint. So you could let the wax cure, paint over it with AS paint then seal it with something other than wax. Or you can use mineral spirits to strip the wax, throw another coat of paint on then seal it. You just can’t apply a sealer directly to the waxed surface because it won’t adhere to the wax properly. Hope that helps and good luck with the table!
I want to add that I would personally opt to remove the wax, maybe not on the legs but at least on the table top. Think about how the new paint and sealer will be laying on top of those multiple wax and paint layers underneath. If those layers underneath are unstable, your top layer will also be unstable and won’t wear well. If it were me, I would sand the whole top of the table to remove all those existing layers, then repaint and seal with something more durable. It’ll be a little more work up front but in the long run I think your table will wear better.
i sooo agree about the wax! The main thing I am trying to work out is how to get the effects of adding a tinted wax with a polyacrylic? i love highlighting my projects and the wax can work so easily for this outcome but will never go back to touch up. Any suggestions? Thanks really appreciate the information.
Check out http://www.heirloomtraditionspaint.com and see their waxes. They come in liquid and gel. They are not a natural wax and are a permanent sealer . . . never have to reapply! The waxes are so easy to use and they have a variety of colors. (No, I do not sell for them and am not compensated in any way to say these things. I’m just trying to be helpful.). They can be topcoated for more hard wear such as table tops and kitchen/bath cabinets. If you want to repaint down the road, just chalk paint right over it no problem. There are a lot of video tutorials out there showing other people’s experiences with it. Hope this helps. 🙂
Reminder about curing time for AS was is 30 days. The chemical bond between the paint and the wax is what makes the no prep. Possible. Also spreading was evenly and lightly takes practice and if you buff, be careful about over buffing if the wax isn’t dry. You can shiny up a spot to much
Thank you so much for this article. I turned an old dresser into an “under the t.v. Table” (not sure what you would call that, lol). It was my first an only time using chalk paint, so I finished w the recommended wax, and I love how it turned out!!! That being said, other then a weekly dusting, it is not a piece of furniture that receives any attention.
I now have been working on an oak dining room set. Because I am divorced, have 2 beautiful and very active daughters, and work full time, it has taken me MUCH LONGER than anticipated, lol. I am finally almost finished (after a couple months), and have been nervous and hesitant to apply the wax. Not only because of the concern of wear on the top of the table, but I have also been worried about whether the wax from the chairs will get onto clothing. I am so extremely thankful I read your article!!! After months of my girls and I eating on T.V. trays, I can’t imagine how disappointed I would’ve been if I had used the wax!!! Thank you so much!!!
You can use Artesian Enhancement’s Clear Topcoat Sealer over a waxed finish for more durability.
I’m glad I read that there is something I can use over the wax on my kitchen table. Think I will try this-thanks
I made the same mistake and was told I had to seal with wax. Anything you have to maintain every few months is not good for me. DIANE
Right?! I barely have time to dye my gray hair every other month :).
I have heard of people who seal with poly and then wax. I’ve never understood why though. Do you know?
I think they’re trying to get the durability of a poly finish with the look of a waxed finish. The poly will successfully protect your paint layer but if the top waxed layer looks bad it’s going to make the whole piece look bad, don’t you think? You can absolutely use wax over poly, but I personally don’t see the point.
Jill Nelson, I could almost see using wax then polyurethane maybe but the opposite just doesn’t make sense to me. Angela
Poly finishes and seals your piece. You can wax on….. but it wipes off. It doesn’t have anything to adhere too. Just finishe with a good poly and use a satin or mat finish. Your piece will look great.
Brilliant! Polyvine wax finish varnish in dead flat and satin finish is the best thing possible. It is water based and I use a good normal paint brush to put it on. Do it quickly and dont go back over till dry. Two coats are best allowing drying time in between.
I used the satin finish one on a kitchen dining table we use daily, two coats, this water based varnish does not yellow. Six months after, my thinly painted table in old white ASCP, wiped over when damp to looked limed and lightly sanded afterwards is as good as new. Red wine wipes off, no marks from warm cups, have not tried hot cups yet but think it would be fine. I just wipe it over with a damp cloth to move any marks. Am thrilled, no more waxing for me on surfaces getting hard use. The satin finish looks like a polished/waxed finish. If you don’t like the sheen, put a dead flat coat on top. I think the satin is stronger than the flat. Make sure you buy the WAX finish though, they do an unwaxed look also, but waxed finish much nicer and so like ASCP with a wax finish when first applied. Nicky. UK.
I use nothing but and love it!!!
I just bought dead flat Polyvine to use on my painted furniture. I love how AS wax deepens her paint colors. Do you use Polyvine OVER wax without any problems? I have a dresser that needs the protection and I am worried I will ruin the piece since I used clear and dark wax on it. Thanks.
I do that sometimes on the top of a piece after having used serval coats of poly top coat simply as a finish to give it a richer finish it works very well.
How would I remove wax from an already “waxed” piece ?
Mineral spirits will remove wax.
So does anything with Ammonia in it, like Windex. No need to spill or drip and damage everything else around your piece.
Windex will remove the wax?
You can also just sand and start over…
Good point! If you don’t want to mess with mineral spirits you can sand it off.
What finish type i.e.: flat, satin, semi-gloss, or high gloss so u like to use most?
I have both the general finishes flat and satin finishes and I like them both equally. I actually don’t notice a huge difference between them. I’m not personally a fan of a super glossy finish on the style of furniture I paint but I really think it’s a personal preference.
I’m not hip to it, either. (Found you via Pinterest.)
I dislike the impermanence of it, too, yet I dislike the yellowing of -thane products.
I like poly acrylic, and it has its place in a nice, satin finish. I was working for an easy, completely matte finish and came across something I love a LOT. You could add this to your tool box of finishes:
I have been using paint base. Just the base, no pigment. I get that which is used for navy or dark colors. With BM, for example, it’s a 4 or 5. Exterior (for the UV and moisture protection) flat, latex base. It goes on frighteningly white, but dries so invisible I swear you cannot tell where it is. Another nice thing is being acrylic, it doesn’t yellow. When I used it on a chippy piece, it glued the chips down without looking gummy like other products. I couldn’t pick them off afterwards. Another bonus. Anyway, a single coat is enough to seal, but a couple does make it pretty impervious to dings and bumps.
I always laugh at the (nuts) people who maintain that wax is great in bathrooms or kitchens. One nice squirt of anything with ammonia in it (like Windex) and it’s GONE! OTOH, that’s the easy way to get wax off something. No need for mineral spirits like some insist. Just dust with Windex and you can start over. LOL!
So here’s another supporter for optional finishes!
I had no clue windex removed wax! So good to know. I need to try your paint base tip too!
What is the exact name for this paint base would love to try it…
Well, I’m sure most paint bases would suffice. I happened to find BM 4 and 5 on sale, so I picked that up. I’ve also used SW and Olympic. The factors I look for are 1) Acrylic/latex, 2) Exterior (for UV protection and water resistance, 3) the base for the darkest paints.
It’s become a my go-to sealant under other finishes. Like wax, for example.
I also used it under crackle mediums. Sometimes I don’t want a dark coat of paint to show through, just the idea that there’s wood underneath. I use paint base, crackle, (sometimes a dark something to make cracks show up more) then another paint base on top to glue down any chips and to seal any chalk type paint I might use for the top coat.
Sounds like a lot of coats of stuff, but I don’t paint things for money, but for my home I’m rebuilding. j I have the luxury of experimenting and getting the exact look I want.
I did seal my kitchen cabinets I stripped (Citristrip) and stained with paint base. I’m really into the raw wood look right now!
Christine you made me chuckle this morning! Thanks!
OH, but I’m always perfectly serious. (eye rolling).
Glad to start your day off right!
Christine
Christine, thank you so much for sharing this. Do you use the dark base over white without yellowing? I wonder if the light base would work as well – mainly because I have miles of it
What if you want to distress and antique a piece using wax? Would you still use a different sealer?
This article was just GOLDEN to me!! Just yesterday I was looking at my AS painted chairs (white) with a wax finish, lamenting the scuff marks from shoes along the bottom ends of the chair, not to mention other marks from the chairs just being bumped, etc. I am totally sold on using a clear water -based varathane in the future.
I also want to now strip the wax off a lateral filing cabinet whose top is getting marked and dinged from just setting paperwork on top!! Using mineral spirits, do we just use it full strength, wipe it on, wipe the wax off?
I’ve never actually had to strip wax with mineral spirits so you might want to google for a second opinion, but my understanding is you slightly dampen a rag with full strength mineral spirits, then rub it onto the waxed surface to pull up the wax. The wax will build up on the rag you’re using so you may have to switch to a clean one frequently.
Hi, I plan on painting my kitchen table with Annie Sloan chalk paint, and then was going to use AS dark wax to age it a little, AS clear wax on top. After reading your article I’m all for the durability of poly instead, but how would I get that aged look?
You can use a dark glaze to get a look similar to dark wax. Or even make your own glaze by mixing paint or stain into a clear tintable glaze (you can find it at the hardware store). Then you can poly over the glaze.
I have used oil paint, it takes a long time to dry. So you have lots of removal times.
Hi Amy, I’m not a huge fan of wax either so I was curious to read your post. I’ve used the General Finishes High Performance topcoat (water based) and unfortunately it does turn yellow-green over white paint. It happened to me on a few pieces I did in ASCP Pure White.. basically they had to be repainted after I realized what happened. It’s been fine over other colors just not white. 🙁
Thank you for chiming in, Jen! What product do you use successfully over pure white chalk paint?
I’m still on the hunt for a good one! I may try out the Rustoleum one you mentioned.
Artisan Enhancements has a Clear Finish coat that you can use without yellowing.
I found the Artisan Enhancements clear finish coat to streak – I ended up with some white spots on ASCP in Louis Blue.
AE will yellow. Had it happened on several pieces this past summer. Any poly has the potential to yellow.
OH no! So sorry that happened. I’ve used AE clear topcoat and AE clear finish topcoat with no difficulty. The Clear Finish Topcoat is recommended on white finishes because the Clear topcoat can yellow. Neither product is a poly however.
I tried the Rustoleum clear Matte..worked great over white! I’ve had the same problem with Varathane over white..great for other colours..:)
Rustoleum clear Matte? You mean the spray? Thanks.
No, not the spray. You can purchase in a can just like the Rustoleum Chalky finish paint. It’s great!
Do you just paint it on and let it dry? I hate having to take the wax back off. Soooo time consuming. Thanks.
Have you ever tried Artistan Clear Coat? Look up the website. I believe these products are all natural (soy) and won’t yellow. I have used the clear coat on AS white with no problem. Also 1 can will last you FOREVER!!!
Have you tried General Finishes Flat Out Flat? Results over white?
The key to using General Finishes clear coats over another brand of chalk paint is waiting 72 hours after applying the last coat of paint before applying the clear coat. Discoloration may occur if you don’t wait. Yes, I had it happen to me.
I had the same thing happen with white paint and General topcoat. I was very disappointing. Now I am repainting.
I have read on Pinterest to use Polycrylic as a finish not Polyurethane. Polycrilic does not yellow. So I have switched. I still use wax but only on legs or as an accent. I never use it on high traffic areas.
I have a trick to prevent white from yellowing when using a topcoat. Mix about 1/4 c of your white paint to about 3/4 cup top coat , mix and apply. Voila!
That’s a great tip! Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! I’ve recently gotten on the chalk paint bandwagon. But have painted for a number of years. I love the ease of the chalk paint. But EVERY time I apply the wax I’m disappointed with the final finish and durability. I’ve scrapped the wax and now use the varathane.
Do you use any of the tinted waxes before applying varathane?
I love the look of the Annie Sloan wax and usually use two thin coats and haven’t had to rewax. However last year I painted my son’s bar chairs with homemade chalk paint (to match the table) and waxed them. It bothered me because I knew he would be putting his feet on the chair rungs so I took a chance and put two coats of General Finishes Flat top coat on the rungs over the wax. It’s been a little over a year and he uses them every day. No wear so far and it looks the same as the all wax parts. Maybe it was just luck but I would definitely try that again.
Excellent post. Thank you. A reply to Kathy if I may….I read you were going to use dark wax first, then clear on top. You likely already know this but just in case, if you use dark wax first (opposed to clear then dark then clear again) I’ve read countless times dark wax will stain the furniture and I’m not sure how you’d resolve that if you ever wanted to change the look. “They” say use clear first to protect piece, then dark, then clear on top. Thought I’d just pass on. 🙂
Great point, Janet! I have an article here with tips on using dark wax https://canarystreetcrafts.com/tips-for-using-dark-wax/. Your advice is spot on.
What sealant would be better than wax on cloth? Don’t want to use wax after painting my queen anne chairs.
Honestly, I don’t know of another sealer that would work well on cloth. I’m sorry! Hopefully someone else will read this and be able to comment with suggestions.
Who uses a Dead Flat Varnish (water based) as a topcoat – whose brand, does it yellow?
Are you thinking of general finishes flat out flat? I’ve never used it but I don’t believe it yellows. The durability of FOF is supposed to be stronger than wax but not as strong as a poly.
I have used a Polyvine in the past and have some Modern Masters in my supplies, have not tried
General Finishes. I like this application because is leaves no sheen and replicates the unwaxed look of the piece (or use over wax) and still protects. I did this with my kitchen cupboards after chalk paint & waxing, a belt & suspenders approach but I feel better about the wear factor. There may be a newer or better product, maybe not. So far, so good.
I use it often….no yellowing .
flat out flat will yellow on certain whites depending on the underlying wood.
I have been a tole painter on furniture for years. I have pieces in my home that have not yellowed. 45 years or so. I used and still use Delta Ceramcoat Exterior / interior Polyurethane Super resistant.
I have sealed hand pained watering cans, that are still great! Wonderful too! for those who are sensitive to toxic fumes or products. You will love it. I do around 5 to 6 coats. But it drys fast. 🙂
Gosh this came at the right time. I have 11 chairs to paint red for a client and was concerned about the paint rubbing off on the cross bar were you put you feet. I really like General finish products. Im gonna take a leap of faith and go with your recommendation!!! Thanks sooo much!
Good luck with the chairs, Holly! Chairs might be my least favorite thing to paint. All those spindles….I’m drinking a glass of wine in your honor just reading about it. 🙂
I recently decided to stop using wax as well on furniture pieces. My two favorite polys are: Minwax Water Based Polycrylic Crystal Clear Matte Finish and my most recent favorite is Fusion Mineral Clear Tough Coat Wipe on Poly…with both of these products I have had no yellowing and have been very pleased.
I’m working on a cabinet right now using fusion paint and top coat! Haven’t gotten to the top coat step yet but this is my first time using their products and so far I really like the paint. I’ll be posting pictures on the website in a couple weeks.
Fusion does not require a topcoat ! Its built in and extremely durable !
Fusion is an amazing product. I used chalk paint before but once I tried the fusion mineral paint I have never bothered with the chalk paint again!
Tanya, do you use a top coat with it? I know it says you don’t need one but I admit I’m a skeptic until I see for myself that it doesn’t need one. I’d love to know what your experience is.
Thank you for this post. I have hesitated painting my bathroom cabinets with chalk paint because I thought I could only seal with wax. Great post!!
This is a topic that has been long in the coming. I have only milk painted and waxed one piece to sell in my antique shop because I was concerned about the upkeep and customer satisfaction down the road. I will try GF TopCoat soon.
Totally agree, Ginene! What type of paint/sealer have you been using successfully on the pieces you sell?
Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. I thought I was the only one disappointed in the AS wax finish. No matter how long I let the wax “set”, when I went back to the piece to buff it out, it always marred the chalk paint..it was splotchy and I was unhappy with the piece. I started using a matte finish water-based acrylic .. .several coats, but it goes on smoothly and dries fast.
You just reminded me of another reason why I prefer a poly when sealing furniture to sell…it dries so fast and I can put it in the booth much faster without worrying about it getting marked up. No waiting WEEKS for it to cure!
I’m curious which brand polyacrylic you like to use?
I did one coat AS wax and lots of elbow grease ended up physical therapy. Needs more wax. Don’t know what to do needs finished. Maybe when I feel better I’ll try winded then polycrylic.
So sorry to hear about the physical therapy! What type of furniture is it? If it’s a table or something where the legs really won’t be getting any traffic, you can probably just leave them sealed with one coat of wax. For the top, I would consider using mineral spirits to remove the wax, then use a more durable poly to seal it. You can use a foam brush to apply the poly and hopefully it won’t hurt your arm! Or maybe you can just use it gently until your arm is feeling better and you have time to finish waxing it? Wishing you a speedy recovery!
Yes..used wax on a side table in a guest bedroom. Guest sat a coffee cup on it! You guessed it..coffee ring. Can’t get it out. Poly would have been better!
That stinks, Cheryl! I wonder if you could use mineral spirits to remove the wax from just the table top then re-seal it with something stronger? You could probably leave the legs waxed since they don’t really get traffic like the table top.
I’m really surprised to hear that there is a ring present. Someone left a plastic cup on a table I have in our sunroom. The weather was bad and and I didn’t discover it for days. It left a gray white ring. I blotted it as best I could. A couple of days later I decided to repaint the top and realized that the mark was gone. A friend did the same thing and within two days the moisture mark was gone. Both of us had waxed the top twice though.
Maybe it was the heat from the coffee cup that made a difference? Good to know water rings might go away in their own if you give it a few days!
Hello.. Today I used rust olioum water base Varathane on my Annie Sloan chalk paint and it started to crackle? The furniture is wood from the 20’s. Im going to guess it’s what ever they once used to top coat? Any ideas as to why rhis would have happened. Thanks for this post!
Klasha W.H.
Is it possible the paint wasn’t fully dry before you applied the top coat? Or the temp fairly hot/cold where you were painting?
Lots of furniture from that era has a varnish (I believe Shellac based) that bleeds through and cracks. IV started to sand those pieces down lots more to avoid that crackling. But it sands easy..:)
I hope you don’t find his too long to read but first I must say OMG we must be twins as I use varythane and have been for the last 4 years!! In the “olden days” I used to strip furniture down to the wood and varythane for protection. I started using varythane for my painted furniture and really if there is one finishing product that I TRUST TRUST TRUST with furniture it is Varythane crystal clear diamond wood finish interior — satin finish — put on with a foam brush thin coats in a straight line with the grain!!!! As well I did not use dark wax as I had no success with it – I used Fusion glaze – varythane one or 2 coats first then glaze. Do a whole section with glaze i.e. Side of dresser – very watery and wet, then wipe of very quickly. Then Use a dry brush quickly to smooth out any blob areas, like corners etc.
FYI I am trying out waxes again after initial disaster with kitchen cupboads 4 years ago (my 1st project!). Here’s the little I know — put on some clear wax — 12 x 12 area ish — DONT wipe it Off – put on a LITTLE dark or black wax – then wipe off! Use clear wax to lighten if need be. I agree it is hard on the body!
I have also tried MINWAX wipe-on poly (hand-rubbed beauty with polyurethane protection). Great on wood – easy to apply with cloth or paper towel. I tried it on painted furniture. It was not successful for me – I will have to sand off the painted dresser top that I did and repaint! Ugh!
My advice and what I generally always do. The top will be protected with varythane or polyurThane ( i.e. Table/dresser) whether painted or wood. The bottom – legs or bottom of dresser use wax or whatever!
Interesting to hear of your experience with Minwax Wipe-on Poly…just called around today to see who carries it in my area (eastern Ontario, Canada) Finding the one overall best topcoat has been the most difficult part of my furniture painting education! Started out with Minwax wax, then found Citrus Shield wax. Still needed a more durable product so I used regular Varathane…too often streaky. Did some google research and found that others recommended using ONLY a foam brush, never a bristle brush. Thought that would fix streaks, but it didn’t. Other articles said using a water-based topcoat over chalk paint will naturally result in streaks because the nature of the chalk paint sucked the WB topcoat in so quickly and therefore unevenly. But using a NON-water based topcoat means yellowing over time….not good for the many white pieces I do. Also had trouble finding a non-wax topcoat that had the same degree of “matte” as wax did. Satin finishes are too shiny for my pieces…counteracts the chalk finish look. Tried Samen brand Matte , which turned out to be shinier than Minwax polycryllic Satin. Next I bought Rustoleum Chalkpaint matte topcoat…still some streaks.This week finally received my back-ordered Polycryllic MATTE finish, but still shows some streaks and unevenness, and the hardware guy said NEVER to use a foam brush only a natural bristle. Also checked out availability of Minwax Wipe on poly around here…but will likely pass now that I’ve read your experiences. Much time, $$$$ and frustration just trying to find the right final finish..and as we all know that final step can make or break the piece.
I think you can get a varathane matte finish from the US but last time I looked you had to buy a gallon. Can’t remember but it might have been Home Depot. Streaking might show less than a satin finish.
If yiu like the matte look ….try General Finishes Flat Out Flat. I haven t had any problems with streaking.
If you like the matte look ….try General Finishes Flat Out Flat. I haven t had any problems with streaking.
I totally feel your frustration. I have struggled with streaks (I am a perfectionist) with any and all products I’ve used with General Finishes being the best (but taking 3 or 4 coats to minimize streaks) until a few months ago. Varathane Nano Defense Matte has been a life saver! Other than having to work very fast in applying it, it is amazing. One coat every 2 hours, let cure for 24 hours before light use then it’s fully cured in 72 hours from last application. I used it on my wood countertops, three coats. It seems to be indestructible! LOVE it!
http://a-fresh-perspective.weebly.com/blog/kitchen-countertops-made-from-solid-wood-doors
I forgot to say that I, too, am Canadian. I got the Varathane Nano Defense at Home Depot.
I am about to attempt a Victorian double bed and wanted to do distressing so how would I do this if I wasn’t going to use AS wax.
Confused
Just paintm distress and then apply the sealer you choose. Same steps as if using wax.
* correction to my bad typing: Just (paint), distress and then apply the sealer. Same steps as using wax.
I know some people recommend waiting to distressing until after you wax, so I’m assuming that’s where you’re getting stuck. You don’t have to wax first though, and I actually preferred distressing before wax. Just paint your piece as usual and distress the raw paint prior to applying any sealer. Then seal it with whatever you choose.
I always distress before any sealer. Also I wet distress. No sand particles in air!
My exact sentiments about wax as a sealer.
I found wax difficult to use and get the results I wanted on my piece. For as long as I have been painting I could not master the use of it without streaking; it just knotted my stomach. Also I started to think about the pieces that I was selling to customers – I knew the wax needed to be reapplied about every 6 months but they did not and.or did they know how or want to maintain it.So u started to research for more durable long lasting sealers.
I have been using General Finishes High Performance , along with your recommendation, and also General Finishes Flat out Flat to seal my painted furniture. LOVE them both. Not only are they more durable products,the application of these products are really time savers as compared to waxing painted pieces. I won t say I’ll never use wax again but I’m pretty close to it. I also think these products are more cost effective than the (ASCP)wax.
I will look for and try the Rust-Oleum product you mentioned. Thank you for this article.
Thank you! I haven’t yet tried the FOF but if you get great results with it I’m going to pick up a can and try it.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts Amy. We have come to the same conclusion as you and use wax on pieces we want a specific look, or for lighter traffic pieces. Pretty much all the pieces we use for our own homes (coffee table, sideboard, buffet, and end tables) we have used polycrylic because it has that better durability! Great insight 🙂
Thanks, Kristen! It makes me feel better that other painters feel the same way I do! Curious which brand of poly you guys like best?
Yea! We use Minwax. It easily accessible (home depot) and covers well. We have only had it yellow from tannins once. We were just able to paint right over it again, and seal it again. Worked perfectly!
Another very irritating thing about finishing kitchen woodwork with wax. We did our island. If we sit anything on it that is warm — even a warm dinner plate, you can see where that plate was placed when you pick it up after the meal. I have started using General Finishes Flat Out Flat sealer. Very matt finish.
Someone earlier commented that a coffee cup left a mark on her table. I was wondering if the heat caused the mark and from your experience it sounds like maybe it did. Glad to hear you like GF FOF. I haven’t tried it yet but I think I’ll give it a shot.
I used the ‘flat’ versus ‘satin’ topcoat by General Finishes. It looked exactly like the slight sheen the wax gives. Haven’t tried their ‘flat out flat’ yet. The store where I buy my supplies said it is really matt. I think that would look nice over stain.
I never used wax and probably never will. I use a good poly and sometimes even a high-gloss one. But my furniture I paint is not chalk paint and is more whimsical and such.
I’ve been using ASCP for a couple of years now and I found that I loved the color of the paint until I put the clear wax on and then the disappointment set in! So I don’t use the wax anymore! I figured that if you don’t need to wax items that are used outdoors (which is stated in Annie Sloane’s Color Recipe Book) then they should be fine indoors! So I leave my pieces as is unless it’s something that is going to be in a high traffic area or I plan to sell. In that instance, I use Hardwood Stay Clear Coat by BM instead! I mix 1/2 Low Luster and 1/2 Flat which results in a beautiful sheen that looks very much like the wax finish. I’ve also used Lowes Varathane No Odor Floor Finish which is the High Traffic Formula. It is water based and therefore fast drying and scuff, abrasion and scratch resistant. This is what I plan to use on my kitchen and bathroom cabinets but in the meantime it’s great for furniture protection after using chalk paint! I learned all this a few years ago when I was doing research by reading every blogger who was using ASCP at that time.
Was it actually the Lowe’s brand? or was it Rust Oleum brand that you got at Lowe’s. I checked Lowe’s but they don not have there own brand… I could only find RustOleum.
Thanks fur this article. I just began using ASAP last year, and my sister is new St it as well. She asked me about the waxing and made your observations, plus found the pieces “sticky” and waxing as much work, if not more than sanding/refinishing the old fashioned way. I’ll share this with her. Thanks!
I am that sister that Deborah mentioned in the earlier post. My questions were all answered here in these posts. I did my daughters desk in AS paint and wax only about 2 months ago and the top is quite marked up and doesn’t want to wipe clean. I will use the mineral spirits to remove the wax (only on the top surface of the desk) and try one of the other suggestions. I appreciate the post from the woman who said she used the AS pure white (which is what I used) and that she got the yellowing from some of the sealers she tried. So, I will be sure to stay away from those. Very helpful, thank you!
Hey Maria! I’m so glad you found the post helpful. The woman who mentioned yellowing with the GF sealer is actually a friend and blogger (Jen). She paints a lot of furniture and I trust her advice 100% so I’m glad she mentioned it too. Good luck with the desk! xo
Good article, I did exactly the same thing for the same reason. Yes you can deffo paint Annie sloan over wax and start over again. My now go to product is dead matt flat polyvine varnish. Only time I use wax now is when is want to thicken paint up and dark wax it to pick up the texture.
Hi Amy! Thanks for the great info as always. I like to do some things with chalk paint but nothing that has to take wear and tear. To be honest I am a fan of regular old satin latex paint for indoor use. It gives the low sheen that I’m looking or with more durability. If I need to do touch ups I do it without a problem and I don’t polyurethane. I can make custom colors on small projects by using white paint and some craft paint mixed in and am happy with the results without adding” chalk” to it. I have never purchased chalk paint like Anne Sloan so I can not vouch for any of them…..just the home made stuff. And I personally have never been a big fan of distressing……most of my stuff gets distressed without any help! When I paint I want a clean fresh look but if I find a piece with the real deal chippy paint and I want to keep that look , then I just wipe it down and leave it alone. I have only done a few projects with wax seal . Even then only the clear wax. Not a huge fan of dark wax…..like I said I like a fresh look . Although I admire the work of others….personally I think it makes it look dirty. Sealing with clear wax didn’t impress me. My thought was “wow ,could have just used satin latex for the same result.”
I hear a lot of painters say exactly what you’re saying about preferring latex paint, Lenore! I’m so glad you stopped by and hope you’re doing well! 🙂
I sort of accidentally on my own came to the realization I didn’t care for wax and I thought I was in the minority. This article just sealed the deal for me for all the same reasons! I HATED applying it. Talk about a pain. And every time I was transporting a piece of furniture to my booth, I had to be paranoid of anything touching it because it would mark up. I’m really regretting those early pieces I’ve sold to others that were “protected” with wax. Once I found General Finishes High Performance Top Coat (Flat) and read how incredibly durable it is, I’ve left wax behind and have never looked back!!! And I’m cheap. $30 a quart – whew! But I pay it without even blinking! 🙂 Thank you for this affirmation!!
Glad you agree, Tracey! I felt exactly the same about pieces we took to our booth.
I also recently send chalk paint and distress I use a wax by Watco that I brush on found it to show a chalky mark on colors items. My solution was to use Pledge on the piece after a couple of applications my problem seems to be resolved. I’m not happy with this solution I will try the General Finish but I am confused as the best way to achieve the darkening of my distressing without using my dark wax. What is the best step for this?
Try using a dark glaze for a look that’s similar to dark wax. You can find it already tinted or buy clear tintable glaze at the hardware store and mix paint or stain in yourself to create a custom color.
So are these steps correct? 1- Chalk Paint 2- Clear coat (Varathane) 3-Distress 4-Seal with your favorite glaze. Please help!!!!! I’m sooo confused! =) Thank you so much!!!!!!!!!!
Hi Hazel! I’m sorry you’re confused! I’ll see if I can help, and I promise once you get your first piece under your belt you’ll feel more confident. 1) Prep your piece. Does it need to be cleaned, sanded, primed, all of the above? Read this post for more info: https://canarystreetcrafts.com/when-to-prep-before-chalk-paint/. 2) Paint. 3) Glaze if desired (optional step). 4) Seal (this is the step we’re talking about in this post. Some people seal with wax, I prefer a water-based poly). If you’re still feeling uncertain send me an email and I’ll walk you through the steps more thoroughly.
Hi,
I have done this several times. The process I use is paint, distress, vsrythane then glaze. I have even varythaned again after the glaze. The important step is varythaning before the glaze. If you don’t the glaze will just get absorbed right into the chalky paint making it look smudgy dirty and impossible to work with When working with glaze apply quickly to all one side, ie, one side of a dresser. Don’t apply sparingly. Then wipe quickly having lots of shop towels handy and already ripped off. I also have a dry chip brush handy to smooth out corners. The trick is to work as quickly as possible. Have fun!
These are great tips, Diane! I always glaze before poly, but it’s a personal preference and you’re right, you will probably have more control using the poly first method. The glaze I use doesn’t really absorb into the paint too much but I can see how some glazes would be really hard to control directly over chalk paint. Technically either way will work and the glaze can be used as a top coat, so using glaze as the last step will not negatively impact the durability of your piece. After reading your comment I’m going to try poly first then glaze and see if I like it better. I’m glad you left this suggestion!
I tried the wax route. Not only was it hard work, I wasn’t very happy with the results. Who knows if I did it exactly right, but I sure tried. If it’s that hard to apply, then it’s not for me.
While I’ll still use the antiquing wax on pieces where I want that result, my go-to final finish is now Holloway House floor shine. Yes indeed, that stuff you put on your hardwood floors to bring them back to life works like a charm on chalk painted furniture. You apply with a rag in thin coats, it dries in minutes, and you can put on as many coats as you like, depending on the use of the furniture. It is not ultra-shiny or glossy when it dries — it looks very much like a waxed surface when finished. It’s durable and easy to dust or clean.
Never heard of Holloway House! I’m going to check it out. Thanks for the recommendation!
I’m so dicouraged with wax… I wanted a smooth finish on a piece. I used graphite ASCP. The wax made it look too rustic, as it highlights the brushstrokes. Since I don’t have to worry about yellowing with this dark of a color, can I use any polyurethane? Or do I have to worry about yellowing?
Thanks,
Ali
alisonkmalone@gmail.com
Hi Ali! You should be fine choosing any water based poly. Oil based will definitely yellow over time and I’m not entirely sure how noticeable that would be over graphite. There’s not really any need to go with oil based unless you’re sealing it for outdoor use.
ASCP is water based. That means you should always use water based products with it😊
I used to think this too but you actually can use oil and water-based products over each other as long as you let the first product dry completely before putting the second product on top. Here’s a video from General Finishes explaining how you can use their oil and water-based products over each other, but it holds true for most any brand of oil/water based products. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yDKZFGvpYpw
Ali, anything with -thane in the name will yellow. There is no such thing as acrylic polyurethane, as some say. It’s either poly acrylic, or a -thane product. Hope that helps.
I can’t help noticing that the varnish from AS isn’t mentioned? I think the product was out last year in Europe. That means that Mrs. Sloan herself must have experienced a need for a more durable alternative to wax. It’s a matte vanish which supposingly doesn’t tend to yellow and it dries up quite quickly as well. And of course, is more expensive than general water based top coat varnishes for floors etc.
I haven’t used AS’s varnish, but I totally agree with you that she must have noticed a need for a more durable top coat! If you try it out you’ll have to let me know what you think.
I haven’t tred it myself, but according to a large number of users in a ASCP group that includes all retailers in Denmark, it is good. Used on white it might yellow a bit in time. Personally I think it mainly competes on drying time since it’s more than twice as expensive as a good brand of floor varnish.. Most uses the one from Junckers (dont know if it’s a worldwide brand) But when I go to paint my stairs and maybe also the kitchen floor I might cobsider the shorter dryingt time. I have to pass through my kitchen to get to the bathroom. And also have a cat that can’t be kept out of the room.
I could not agree more! I’ve been painting furniture for years and hate the wax. I had my kitchen cabinets painted and did not wax we used a sealer!
I have only chalk painted 2 items, both for personal use. All this time I thought I just waxed them wrong because the finish was unsatisfactory to me. I’m going to wipe them both down with mineral spirits and use one of the finishes mentioned above. The big reason I even splurged to buy AS paint was I loved the graphite color and the antique white color. I’m not sure I could mix those in latex paints or trust that the colors would come out as rich. Thanks for this post!
There’s a blogger out there, Leslie Stocker Colorways, I think. She has a whole chart of ASCP paint colors and their matches with SW or BM. Maybe both, I can’t recall. I can tell you I used the Coco match (can’t get enough of that color, or CeCe Caldwell’s Young Kansas Wheat) and it’s PERFECT. Oh. If you use CCC’s paints, Patty Henning on her blog has done the same thing with BM.
Hope this helps.
I quit using the wax over the chalk paint a while ago. Did not like the durability at all! I’ve since then tried some poly. I LOVE the Rustoleum matte finish and the polycrylic matte finish (both are water-based). The steps that work best for me are: paint with chalk paint (my base coat choice), paint 2 coats of top color, distress a little or a lot ( personal preference), add a coat of poly, let it dry, antique wax it, then top coat with another coat of poly. I love the finish! There are a lot of steps, but I have 2 or 3 projects going on at the same time! Lol!
Hi there
Getting ready to do my kitchen cabs. Was going to wax but now rethinking it. Are all these waxes that are recommended instead a thick wipe in kind the the AS or do you have to paint them on?
Thanks
Hi Gina! The products I mentioned and most people are talking about in the comments are paint on polyurethanes. I usually use a foam brush to apply them. Hope that helps!
Thanks for all the great info! I too have never had success with wax however every time I have to put a sealer on I dread it! The sides of pieces are no problem but the top I find extremely difficult. I’ve tried brushes, foam brushes, rags, you name it…how do you get an even nonstreak finish when you are doing coffee tables and the top of dressers etc. Maybe I’m not putting enough sealer on my brush? I hate the streaks I seem to create… any advice would be so appreciated! Thankyou and love your website! Jan
I have experienced the same frustration until December when I discovered Varathane Nano Defense Matte. Its intended for hardwood floors. I’ve used it on my wood countertops and on an island I built for my mom. It doesn’t streak, is a fast curing product, and super durable! I’m a huge fan! Check out my blog for more details. a-fresh-perspective.weebly.com
I agree with everything you said! Although, I really like Wise Owl wax sticks for sealing signs. Super easy to use and they smell great. I also like to seal furniture and table tops with their hemp oil. Easy to use, nice matte finish, extremely durable and even food-grade safe.
Great tip about the hemp oil, Susan! I still use wax to seal signs and frames sometimes too. Stuff that really doesn’t get used or touched.
By the way, I saw you’re hosting a market in Harrison next month! I grew up in Harrison and happened to see it on fb when my SIL said she was going. Anyway, we’ll be be in Florida that week but if you do another and you need vendors please let me know! We’ve never done a market but I think it would be fun to try it. Hope you’re doing well and I’m wishing you lots of success in all you’re doing!
Wait. You grew up in Harrison??? So did I. What year did you graduate? What a small world. And it’s purely coincidental that I even found this place…and in Harrison of all places. But it’s perfect for a vendor event like this. I’m so excited. Would LOVE to have you join us in the future. I’ve tentatively scheduled one for Dec 1-2 but still working out details with owners. Stay tuned.
No way! I graduated in 96 and have 2 younger brothers. My maiden name is Ventre. Most of my extended family still lives there. Such a small world! Definitely let me know what you have in the works later on. I’d love to participate sometime or even just help you get the word out :).
Ok. Well, I’m old. I graduated in 1986. We just moved the last of my family members out this way (Lebanon). But clear up until last year I was still going out there frequently.
Would love it if you could give The Vintage Spring Market a shout out. 🙂
My husband graduated from Taylor in 86 :). I will definitely promote the market and post it on my personal page as well. Hope it’s massively successful!
Are you familiar with the Verathane Triple Thick poly that is supposed to be as good as three coats in one coat? I’ve bought Crystal Clear to go on top of chalk painted chairs but would the one you suggest be better? I haven’t used it yet, still painting chairs.
I’ve never used the triple thick poly so I can’t compare the two. I think the crystal clear you bought will work fine for the chairs.
I have been debating between Annie Sloan chalk paint and General Finishes Milk Paint. You have definitely sold me on General Finishes for a top coat instead of wax. Any thoughts on the General Finishes Milk Paint?
I’ve only used GF milk paint on one piece and honestly I wasn’t a big fan of it. Nothing specific, and the piece turned out lovely, I just didn’t personally like painting with it. Some people love it though so don’t let me sway you from giving it a try! GF has a chalk paint line too- I have a couple cans in my workshop but haven’t used them yet.
Good to know, thanks. Any experience with Fusion Mineral Paint? I have seen a comparison with Chalk Paint and it looks promising…has a built in topcoat and is self leveling. My project won’t involve distressing.
I have been using Fusion Mineral Paint and I have to say, it works beautifully and no need to seal the project!!! that alone I really love. They have great colors too I only go back to ASCP Old White just because it’s a great neutral shade. I’ve become addicted to Vintage Market and Designs Chalk and mineral paint, it is a phenomenal product and their colors are really beautiful that is my new favorite, BUT it requires sealing with wax or top coat, it covers so well and it dries so nice and smoothly.
Thanks so much for the feedback! I have a store nearby with Fusion, so will probably go with that, but will keep the Vintage Market option in mind…
Has anyone used Fusion Mineral Paint over an oil based paint? I have a old foot locker that I painted in the 1960’s. I talked to a retailer that indicated I would need to shellac first…
I’ve used Fusion for years, and have become a retailer of the product. My suggestion is to Zinsser BIN oil base prime over the oil paint, one coat, then paint with Fusion. Water and oil paint are not compatible with the exception of an oil primer
Nancy – on my first painted piece – a cute little French desk – I used milk paint. After 4 coats it still wasn’t covered. I hated the ‘feel’ of the General Finishes Milk Paint. I ended up using ASCP over the GFMP. The ASCP is much easier to use and covers more quickly.
Thanks for the input!
Nancy – on my first painted piece – a cute little French desk – I used milk paint. After 4 coats it still wasn’t covered. I hated the ‘feel’ of the General Finishes Milk Paint. I ended up using ASCP over the GFMP. The ASCP is much easier to use and covers more quickly. I then used the Artisan Enhancements over the paint finish which brought the wood ‘bleed thru’ out from under all those coats of paints. Next time I’ll try a different finish and the Milk Paint (also not cheap) is going in the trash.
Hi Amy,
This has been such a helpful article about waxing! Some time ago I painted two antique velvet arm chairs with chalk paint and then used the AS dark wax that was recommended but the sales assistant to get a black finish. She said to buff it off after 24hrs to avoiding the dark wax coming off, but no matter what I do I can’t stop the dark wax from coming off. It’s been months and many attempts to buff off any excess. Our chairs look beautiful but are completely ruined because no one can sit on them without getting completely covered in black wax! Is there anything I can do to fix wax on fabric??
Hi Brie! That stinks about the chairs! Have you tried putting a layer of clear wax over top? It might help seal in the dark but I have no clue if it’ll work. The only other thing I can think to do is to add fabric medium to some sort of clear glaze or poly. I would experiment on an old throw pillow or something first, but maybe the fabric medium (and maybe a little water too) would make the clear top coat pliable enough that you could put a thin layer over the wax without it getting crunchy. Again, not sure if it’ll work but it’s worth a shot if the chairs are unusable as they are. Maybe someone else will have a different idea too. Wishing you luck!
Thanks for the suggestions. I haven’t dared put any more wax on (even clear) since I don’t know what went so wrong initially. I’ll trial your suggestions with fabric medium and hope that I can make them usable again. The AS wax was sold to me as a marvel product to seal painted upholstery leaving it with a soft but usable finish, which may be true, but I’m glad that you’ve shown me that for future projects there are alternatives to wax. Thanks again!
That’s exactly how it was sold to me Brie! And that’s the main reason why I wrote the article. Not so much to bash wax, but to let people know there are alternatives. Really hoping you get the chairs figured out. I’m also wondering if you could have too much wax on the fabric and it’s just not curing. If so, maybe gently rubbing mineral spirits over the surface will pull some of the wax up and let it cure. Fingers crossed you’re able to experiment a bit and find something that works!
Sounds like the black wax isn’t curing bc it was applied too thick? To get the wax off so that it may cure completely…
Need to emulsify the black wax so that it may be wiped off. Can do that by heating it up. Use either a hair dryer or put it out in the sun. Keep wiping with rags as long as there is color coming off.
I know it’s counter intuitive, but putting clear wax over the black wax will also emulsify it and allow it to be removed.
Good luck!
Wow! Can’t thank you enough for this fantastic post. I recently painted my very first piece of furniture with AS chalk paint. Instead of starting with a small project, I went for a large dresser. Big mistake! The painting went really well (I used the colour graphite) but the waxing was awful! It left smears of white discolouration on the dark grey and completely robbed me of enthusiasm to start another project. The idea of using a sealer is wonderful and far more appealing than rubbing in wax every few months!
I like the feeling of waxed furniture, but I agree about he low durability. I usually put a coat or two of polyurethane on first and then wax over that. Then I don’t have to worry if I don’t get around to waxing things again for a while. I wouldn’t do it on things that get wet frequently but I do dressers and such with wax.
I cant believe what I have just read! You have said everything, plus some, that I would have liked to say but just kept thinking about. I just dont get how so many upcyclers think thats just the thing to do, paint, then apply wax. Its what the chalk paint sellers make you think thats what you are supposed to do. As you said, wax gives a nice soft finish, but so do other products, and they are sooo much more durable. I regret so much having sold so many pieces to customers that I finished with wax. I cant imagine what my poor customers must be going through, wondering why their piece marks so easily and why it seems to need more waxing after a while. I didn’t even realise that when I sold them, until much later on. I still use wax at times, but very selectively. Thank you for reinforcing how I have been feeling for ages. I thought I was the wrong one and couldn’t work out why nobody else agreed with me. I said as much on a Chalk Painters Facebook page and was threatened with being blocked if I upset its members with such talk again. I honestly thought I was just being very kind and helpful and giving people a choice. Oh well, its good to know that I am not alone. Thank you, thank you, thank you for this!!!!
I am getting ready to paint my kitchen table. (My very first project…yikes) I sanded it and want to white wash the top. Do i need something over the raw wood before i paint? And, the biggest question is what is the absolute best finish to protect my everyday kitchen table? I have a 2 and 3 year old which means lots of spills! Also, want it to be safe for the crazy kids who put their mouths on everything.
Thanks in advance!
You don’t need to do anything to the raw wood before painting. For the sealer, I would look into Waterlox: https://www.waterlox.com/products-item/waterlox-original-satin-tung-oil-wood-floor-finish. I haven’t personally used it but I’ve heard great things about it and it’s waterproof when cured (unlike most sealers that are water resistant). It’s also food safe once cured (most sealers are also food safe when cured if you decide to use something else). Other poly sealers would also work for a table top, but if I were looking for a really durable sealer that’s going to get lots of traffic, hot plates, and lots of spills, this is what I think I would go with. Hope that helps and good luck with the table!
Thank you so much!! I’m excited to get started
Wow, and I thought it was just me! I wanted to like wax, I tried it so many time and even went to a class to ‘learn how to apply it right”, but it was always the same difficult process only to not be happy with the results. I opted for acrylic top coats and tried Polycrilic many times and it’s ok, but then I used General Finishes satin and flat and I realized how magnificent that product is, it goes on easiy and it dries beautifully even and the look is perfect. So, no I don’t use wax anymore, except sometimes over the top coat as a final touch when I want a bit of sheene, just to use up what I had already, but I’m not buying any.
Do you prefer flat or satin finish?
Thoughts on polycrystalline as a finish?
And finally, I’m planning on refinishing my kitchen cabinets with chalk paint. I plan to prime first… just to be safe. What primer old you recommend? Thank you!!!
*polycrylic (stupid auto correct)
I like flat finish because although it isn’t completely matte, it does not give the sheen that satin gives and I use chalk paint which is so pretty in its chalky look and I just try to keep it as matte as possible to preserve the look, but it is a matter or preference I think. I’ve never used polycrystalline as a finish, but I have not painted kitchen. I use Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Primer in spray because it’s so easy to apply and give a very even surface, I have tried the brush on but I find it tends to thicken quickly and brush strokes are common so I have to then sand it (more work).
It’s great that you are letting people know this. I always wonder about those pieces you see sold in those boutiques… do they tell the buyer that they will have to maintain them? I’ll bet not.
How about if I use AS chalk paint and use dark wax to age the furniture and seal it with General Finishes ? Would this work better on a high traffic table and chairs? Thanks.
Unfortunately the wax isn’t a stable enough base for the poly to adhere too. Most poly manufacturers (including GF) specifically say their product will not work correctly over wax. What you can do as an alternative to dark wax is to use a dark glaze instead. You can get a very similar look to dark wax and you can poly over top of the glaze.
General Finishes Van Buren Brown glaze is beautiful and should give you the look you want. ☺
Thank you for suggesting that, Joanne! I haven’t had a chance to use the GF glaze yet and wasn’t sure if it was any good.
How do you get the antique look if you don’t want to use the dark wax? I’ve painted chair legs chalk white and wanted to antique them. Now reading your sage advice, I’m not sure how to antique them and seal them with one of your recommendations…help!
You can use an antiquing glaze like Fusion’s, my favourite. However, as dark wax will stain white paint without a coat of clear wax underneath, so will glaze do the same without a coat of something first, ie, for me, varythane. That at least has been my experience and “key learning”!
Hi Amy Thank you for sharing. Can you use the sealer regardless of what type of material under the AS paint? I´ve just paineted Ikeas Kallax shelf. It´s got a very smooth surface. The AS paint is looking great, but could i use the sealer?
You can absolutely use the sealer on any painted surface, including IKEA furniture. Keep in mind that any sealer is going to slightly change the look of the finish. I only mention it because I’d hate for you to seal a piece you love, then find that you don’t like the top coat. Maybe use it on a small, inconspicuous spot first and make sure you’re ok with the final look.
Great post! Agree 100% with what you had to say. I’ve always thought people tolerate wax because they love the ease of chalk paint so much 🙂 I think the breakthrough for me came when I found Fusion Mineral Paint–acrylic and needs to topcoat. Fully sealed, waterproof finish with paint alone (and I can testify as it’s on my front door and 2 sets of cabinetry in my house!). So it’s the ease of a chalk-type paint without the need for wax. Seemed like the best option in my book!
I’m not a wax fan either and for the same reasons you’ve given. My go to finish is Minwax polycrylic. I’ve used water based Minwax polycrylic consistently, over a variety of finishes, without any problems. I like it because it’s an easy clean up and, as advertised, it doesn’t yellow. I’ve used both the satin and gloss with beautiful results. To avoid problems I stick to the rule oil over oil-based finish and water over water-based finish. Also, there’s a significant difference between polyurethane and polycrylic. Here’s a link to Minwax’s clear finish guide that might be helpful too https://www.minwax.com/how-to-finish-wood/guide-to-clear-finishes/
Thank you for the article Amy, I have been painting with ASCP for a while and have had a great experience with the paint but am not loving the wax ! I just happened to be at Home Depot and saw that Rustoleum has a line of chalk paint and has a flat top coat. Have you or anyone else tried this product ?
I use the Rustoleum Chalked Paint and Matte Top Coat all the time.It is AWESOME!! They now have a light tint and a deep tint base that you can mix to make many different colors similar to the Annie Sloan colors. I have a booth in a local mall and sell restyled furniture. I use both General Finishes Milk Paint and the Rustoleum Chalked paint and the respective top coats and love them both. I also worked at shop whose owners painted kitchen cabinets and bathroom vanities. They ONLY used the GF milk paint and high performance top coat. It is extremely durable.
Hi Amy, I run creative workshops including a furniture painting/distressing one over 3 sessions and I also run a weekly creative craft club.
I have been painting furniture for over 25 years, both for me and for sale, and AS paint was around a long time ago in the UK. I have found if you want durability, a light sand prior to paint will do wonders. I sometimes use chalk paint if there is a colour I particularly like but I still sand and never use wax.
I love the Vintage look so I do not want a sheen and my go-to product is the Polyvine Decorators Varnish – dead flat finish. You need to apply thin coat/s to avoid it looking ‘milky’ and it is a fab product that gives an excellent dead flat finish although it is expensive. However, although you could paint say a picture frame and hang it in a bathroom and it will be fine, it won’t withstand being wiped down often – so not good for a kitchen.
So glad to see this article. I have felt the same way for years about wax finishes. Never have the same durability as a flat matte water based varnish. I usually use several coats of it to make sure the surface is durable. I am in the UK and always use Polyvine Dead Flat varnish. It does not change the colour of the piece and is very durable. In a bad case of mistreatment of a surface, just a light sand and a recoat does the job.
I don’t love wax but LOVE (when I MUST wax) MMSlavendar scented wax. Mega easy application. But my lately go to is polyvone wax finish DEAD FLAT. Love love love.
Completely agree!!! Great post. 🙂 I just did my kitchen and painfully waxed the whole thing. It’s very inconsistent in finish and doesn’t give that pop I wanted. Even splotchy in spots despite my careful application. I tested a section with spray poly and i LOVE it.. cant’ wait to redo the rest. I also agree for pieces that don’t get a lot of use it’s fine, but high traffic surface I think the Poly is the way to go.
This post! These comments! Amazing! My fiancé & I are in the process of purchasing our home & I’ve been doing a LOT of research on painting our soon-to-be kitchen cabinets… along with a lot of outdated furniture. I’m new to chalk paint but have refinished countless wood furniture projects in the past. I was leary about the wax process…. couldn’t imagine it being durable yet so many blogs swear by it. Then I found this! Thank you!! I’ll start on smaller furniture projects & when my confidence has grown I’ll move onto the cabinets! I love the look of distressed chalk paint & now I love the idea that it CAN be durable! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
Seriously, You Should try Plaster Paint Co’s One Step paint for your cabinets. You can thank me later 😉
I have only done a few pieces with chalk paint and wax and I’m not sure if ive done something wrong or what but my wax seems tacky forever or maybe calmy maybe and i tried buffing for a sheen and it didnt happen?
Hi Elizabeth! It sounds like you’re using too much wax. If it’s still tacky weeks later and buffing isn’t helping, you can try using mineral spirits to strip off some of the wax. Or, if you’re using Annie Sloan products, she says if you let the wax cure for a month, you can paint over it and try again.
Hi there. So many replies to this post!! I think we all have had issues with top finishes. Since I don’t live in the US, I cannot get my hands on some of the Wb Poly and if I do, I’d have to pay MUCH more than you do so my alternative is only wax.
Let me just say that the durability of most available waxes, including AS’s and Minwax is indeed week BUT I make my own using bees, candelilla and carnauba waxes along with turpentine and linseed oil. I use as much carnauba as I can keeping in mind that I want my wax to be creamy. Carnauba is a VERY hard wax so you have to use a lower percentage than the other two but let me tell you that my wax lasts a very LONG time on my painted pieces being made out of wood or upholstery (I do apply the wax over fabric). Because carnauba has a yellowish color, I cannot make clear wax but it has never turned my pieces yellow. Just a thought for those of you that may want to try making your own wax.
I can definitely understand where you ate coming from. AS wax and some other brands are frustrating with their low durability. I would however highly recommend you try Plaster Paint Company’s Paste Wax. It is extremely durable and easy to use. I’ve had pieces I painted 3 years ago and paste waxed one coat and has held up beautifully. I’ve even painted and sold boots painted and paste waxes with PPC that turned out and held up great. Although waxing and dealing is practically a thing of the past with their One Step self sealing paint.
Thanks for your insight! Do I have any other finish option if I use chalk paint on a leather recliner chair?
Hi Carianne! I don’t personally know of another sealer that would work well on leather, but that doesn’t mean there isn’t something out there. I hope you’re able to find a good alternative!
I am wondering if you can use a spray finish over chalk paint or stained wood furniture? I recently redid a desk where I re-stained the top and chalk painted the body of the desk. I do not know what the best way to seal it is, I have heard wax but now I’m not sure I want to use that. I have a rustoleum spray clear matte topcoat that I could use but wanted to know if it would work first!? I’d hate to mess up the desk!
I have a couple spray can top coats that I’ve used to seal smaller craft projects. I’m not sure if I have rustoleum brand, but all the spray poly’s I’ve used have yellowed really badly. I wouldn’t recommend them for furniture just from my own experience using them.
If you have a paint sprayer, most paint-on top coats can be used through a sprayer.
If I could just add my 2 cents here…
I completely agree with you on the low durability of the waxed finish. Although beautiful, It has really bothered me that when I sell a piece especially like a dining table that the buyer will have to rewax soon. So I started experimenting with other sealers. After speaking with a few different people, I tried the Rustoleum crystal clear you mentioned above. On a white dining table that I was going to be using in my kitchen. After just a few months the “clear coat” began to yellow. It also allowed for just about anything to penetrate and discolor the finish. (It was in a low sunlight area as well) So in my opinion and experience the Rustolem is no better an option than wax. I’ll be happy to try the General Finishes product you mentioned above though.
Thank you for sharing that, Katrina! I appreciate people sharing their own experiences with different products. How did you end up fixing the table?
I sanded the top back down, repainted it and used clear wax :/ wasn’t sure what else to do at that point.
Love all the comments and insight here! Thank you for the post and quick response!
I have tried many waxes and since I stopped using wax, have also tried several top coats, recently I discovered Polyvine Decorator’s Dead Flat Varnish and it’s my new favorite for super matte finishes, I just did an all white desk and the product not only flowed super smoothly, but it dried beautifully even and it didn’t yellow at all – it is truly ‘dead flat’ finish, other matte tops coats – General Finishes and polycrilic top coats do not quite give a matte result so for purposes of a look almost like just chalk paint Polyvine Decorator’s Dead Flat Varnish is the one for me now.
Thank you for sharing that! Yes, I’m definitely after that “matte” finish!
Hello, I just came across your blog via Pinterest. I chalk painted my first piece of furniture (a buffet table) and used a wax sealer. However, the wax I bought looks nothing like Annie Sloan’s wax. 😉 It’s much thinner. Anyway, I didn’t prime (because I was under the impression you don’t need to prime with chalk paint, and some areas did yellow (-Maybe the brand is poor quality?). I didn’t worry about it because I was going for the distressed look anyhow. But the top is really obvious, so I just threw a table runner on it for the time being. Would it help if I sanded the top and primed/painted and resealed? Or will the yellow still bleed through? Sorry for such a long comment!
Hi Elly! If you haven’t waxed yet you can just prime right over the paint then paint another coat. If you have waxed, you’ll need to follow the instructions on the can for painting over it. Most waxed cannot be painted over successfully. In that case, sanding the top, priming and repainting is what I would do. You usually don’t need to prime under any chalk paint but bleeding and the need for primer can happen with any brand. It’s often just the luck of the draw whether your piece will need primed or not. Hope that helps!!
For a distressed look that you’d normally get with dark wax, I mix water based glazing liquid with a few tbs. of water based stain. Brush this onto the piece and then wipe/blot off as much as you want with a rag. Work in small sections. For an aged look, leave more glaze in the corners and areas with nooks and crannies. It dries to a hard finish.
Hi there!! so I have one coat of A.S chalk paint on my baby crib.I didn’t prime as everything said oh no,need to….. I really dont think wax is going to be suitable for this project as I have the same concerns most have already addressed… Do you have any recommendations on a poly type product that will work good and be non-toxic?? Please help ! I’m really second guessing this whole project 🙁
Hi! Don’t second guess–it’ll be fine! If you’ve already started painting and feel like it really needs to be primed, you can throw a coat of primer right over the first coat of paint if you want. If you feel like it’s adhering well and you’re not getting any bleed through, it’s probably fine without primer. Most polys are nontoxic and completely safe for use on a crib once they’re fully dried. If you’re still hesitant, look into a product by general Finishes called salad bowl top coat (or something like that). I’ve never used it and have no idea if it yellows or how well it works, but it’s supposed to be food safe. I would personally opt to use their regular high performance top coat on a crib, but I wanted to throw it out there as a possible alternative if you’re interested. Good luck finishing the project!!
Thank you so much !
Have you taken a Chalk Paint® class before? Some of your advice is off base. A class may help clarify. Just a suggestion.
Actually, I have taken classes. Care to elaborate on what you feel is off base?
I don’t want to get in an argument with you on your blog. I’m happy to privately email you. Best of luck
Yes! I’ve never been a waxing fan. I always steered my customers away from it. I showed how to use it in my workshops but always sold a ton of my favorite CeCe Caldwell’s Endurance. It’s my go to. Love it. So easy and durable. I will not wax furniture. I might do a frame or something but never furniture. Too time consuming. Thanks for spreading the word.
I have some of the Endurance but haven’t tried it yet. So glad to know you like it! I’ll have to try it soon.
Have any of you tried the wax products that Heirloom Traditions Paints sell? It is not a natural based wax like most others and is VERY easy to use and is a permanent sealer . . . meaning that you do not have to reapply ever again! The technology of this stuff is amazing. For those of you that like the look of waxing, this is your new love I guarantee. I have yet to try their top coat, though. They recommend the top coat for cabinets and table tops, things that get very high usage. Check out my post about using the wax here: http://a-fresh-perspective.weebly.com/blog/the-moroccan-side-table
Hi, I’m getting ready to paint my kitchen cabinets grey and white and have a few questions. I tried reading all the previous posts, but honestly didn’t get through all of them (sorry). I love chalk paint, but am interested in the fusion mineral paint? What are the pros of the fusion for kitchen cabinets? What are your thoughts on AS paints vs. cheaper versions? Do the cheaper chalk paints not finish well with any of the sealers you’ve listed in your post? I’m looking for my cheapest and quickest options for this project:) If it were you, what would you use? Thanks so much!
Hi, I’m from England and am totally bamboozled (which isn’t difficult) with all this information as to what to use. I’m quite new to painting furniture; I used Rustoleum furniture varnish over white Rustoleum chalk paint and it yellowed it terribly. I now use Autentico chalk paint which was do much better to apply, and wax but realise that it would need rewaxing at some stage.
What I really need is someone in the know to tell me “Jan use ******* product over chalk paint. It will not yellow or streak and is available to buy in UK”.
Jan, I have tried many products to use over chalk paint, several waxes then I switched to polycrylic top coats and have tried several, the best I’ve ever used is Polyvine Decorator’s Varnish Dead Flat Finish – it DOES NOT yellow, I just used over two big pieces of furniture painted in Pure White and Off White and absolutely no yellowing. I like the matte/flat finish because it’s truly matte, it comes in satin finish as well which I have not used because I prefer flat. I have never used Rustoleum Chalk paint so I cannot vouch for that brand of paint however. Also, it is key to avoid yellowing to not apply the top coat too heavily as I’ve noticed that just about any brand of top coat will puddle in places and it will then turn darkish yellow.
I couldn’t agree more about wax. I’ve been using Rustoleum Chalked Matte Clear instead, and have been pleased with the results.
So pleased to have read this article, just painted my stair case with chalk paint and whitewashed over the top with chalk paint was going to use wax as recommended by the shop who sold me the paint, did talk to the sales person at great length about wear and tear and not wanting to have to do touch ups but he still highly recommended the wax. So do you think a water based Matt varnish would suit better.
The fist time I used wax I was not impressed. No matter how much buffing I did it just didn’t look right and then I heard it would have to be reapplied from time to time. Ever since, I have sealed my pieces with Rust-Oleum poly acrylic and love it. My customers are happy too.
Hi… have you ever use AS laquer as top coat for example on a dinning table?? What your impresson about it??
I’m from Portugal and don’t find the products you shown. Thanks
I haven’t used the AS laquer. My guess is it would be a much better option for a table top than wax, but I can’t say for sure how it holds up.
Hi,totally agree. We’re in UK and stock GraceMary Home Decor Paint. We use Polyvine Chalk Paint Waxer for all furniture. Goes on like a varnish but dries with a wax finish. Great coverage and great protection. Will be posting the link to this article on our facebook page (Hansam Crafts). Thanks.
Thank you for sharing the article, Hannah! I haven’t tried Polyvine products but I’ll have to look for it down here. Hope you have the best week!
So glad to find this. I love chalk paint and have always sealed with the wax before [like you said “I didn’t know I had A choice] Today I started chalk painting my kitchen cabinets, I’m using the rustoleum chalky paint for the first time rather then AS. I’m very happy with it so far, but I knew I wanted to seal kitchen cabinets with something me durable and longer lasting then wax. I’m going to use the rustoleum sealer as you suggest, Thank you.
Hi first off great article. I also use a lot of chalk paint.at one point you mentioned using wax over your alternate sealer. Can you tell me the reason you would use both. Did you get a different finished look. Just relly curious. Thank you Patti
Hi Patti! I wouldn’t personally use wax over an alternate sealer. The top waxed layer will still look rough over time, and I don’t think it would adhere as well as it does to unsealed chalk paint. A few people have asked if it’s possible to use wax over another sealer, and it is possible if that’s what someone really wants to do. I think most people were asking because they like the look of dark wax and wanted to continue using it, but you can’t poly over wax. I would recommend using a dark glaze instead to get a similar look without having to use dark wax. Hopefully that makes sense! I’m glad you stopped by :).
I am about to start a piece and I was all set to try the dark wax effect on it.. But I didn’t know that the wax wasn’t permanent, so I don’t know if Im going to do now. How can I get that effect, but with something I can put a permanent sealer over? Thank you for the article. I think it saved me a bit of a headache 🙂
Hi Kristine! You can use a dark glaze to get a very similar effect to dark wax. Many chalk paint lines carry a pre-made dark glaze, and you can also buy a clear tintable glaze at the hardware store or Amazon and make your own custom colored glaze by adding a little paint or stain. The glaze itself acts as a protective barrier, but I always poly over it for better protection.
Hi, I use Fusion Mineral paint and Fusion tough coat. I start with Fusion ultra-grip on my pieces and then Fusion paint, and then after days of curing, I use the tough coat. I let my pieces sit for days and weeks to cure but I’ve only had great results. I even use the tough coat on my stained pieces too. It works great with no odors or chemicals to deal with. You can use it right in your home. No I don’t sell the stuff or work for the company. Here’s some samples of the paint on our products. http://www.dgheirloomrefinishing. com
I recently used Fusion for the first time and absolutely loved it.
I like to use Miss Mustard Seed’s Top Coat for items that will get a lot of use. It’s tough as nails and works great with no yellowing. I’m sure it’s designed for use with her milk paint, but it’s expensive and I don’t care for it.
There is a “look” about wax that you can’t get with other sealers. It’s a look I am personally fond of. More suitable look for older pieces. I use Dead Flat Sealer, satin poly as well as wax. However, I will never give up wax, because I really want that “look” sometimes. I don’t agree with it not being durable. I did my daughter’s cabinets three years ago and was just there and I am still amazed how wonderful they still look. Did three coats of paint and three coats of wax. My granddaughter was learning to walk soon after we did them and banged her walker into the island several times and you wouldn’t know it! I haven’t had to rewax them either. And it’s incorrect that you have to take off the wax to repaint. In fact, you can mix the paint and wax together for a different look as opposed to dark, black or white wax and it gives an awesome affect. Just my two cents worth. Appreciate all the valuable posts and replies. PS I have been painting for over three years and have done more than 100 pieces- I only use ASCP and Miss Mustard Seed. I feel like don’t fix it if it’s not broken. Ha!
My son , who is an antique furniture restorer and French polisher would agree with all you say about waxing he would always use varnish of one type or another but then again he rarely uses chalk paint Margaret
Love this post. What would you suggest for pieces where you want the white or dark wax look? Is there anything to seal them in with?
I would use a glaze. You can purchase pre-made glazes or you can buy a clear tintable glaze at the hardware store or Amazon and make your own custom colored glaze by adding a little paint or stain. The glaze itself acts as a protective barrier, but I always poly over it for better protection.
Another first time chalk painter here! The first could pieces I did I used wax and I love the look and feel (feels durbable to me). But then I read all the negatives about wax versus sealers. With my next piece I used the GF seal cost in flat that you recommended. It just doesn’t feel as strong after it’s dry. Do you recommend more than one cost? Should I put the polyurethane over it? Thanks!
Hi Kara! Yes, I usually do 3 coats.
Should I sand in between coats?
GF recommends a light sanding between each coat but I usually don’t.
Thanks!!
Thank you for the wealth of information! When purchasing ASCP today I was discouraged from sealing my piece with General Finishes High Performace Polyurethane Top Coat as they stated the top coat would cause the chalk paint to lift from the wood over time. I did not purchase any wax – they didn’t push me on it – but I would appreciate your thoughts on their comment. ( I am preparing to refinish a solid oak console that presently has a honey oak stain.) Thanks!
Hi Kimberly! I have a couple pieces that I painted and sealed a couple years ago and haven’t had any issues with the paint lifting. I can’t imagine what would cause that to happen and I’ve never heard of anyone having an issue like that.
I never use wax , never have I use acrylic floor varnish, in a satin finish , it’s hard wearing and works really well , and is a very economical choice , a couple of coats is all that’s needed , I only use wax on bare wood to bring out the natural beauty of the grain
I was a newbie and painted my dining table, then waxed because I didn’t know there were other options. It was not anything like the YouTube videos! I thought I bought the wrong wax so I sanded it all off and relaxed with Annie Sloan. Hated it. The table had smear marks all over and was just all wrong for a dining table. I also learned that waxing over dark chalk paint is harder because all the streaks show. Kill me. After much research I found a blog that mentioned varathane polyurethane. So I stripped the wax with mineral spirits and finished my table with the poly. I learned the hard way but now I know that poly is so much better. Wax is just not going to cut it for a heavy use table. And wax isn’t heat resistant either so any hot plate could ruin the wax. Bonus was that poly turns graphite paint black and that’s the color I was hoping for! I love my table now. I told my sister about my struggle. She repainted her dining set and went straight to poly with excellent results as well. It feels like a smooth hard finish. I can glide my hand across the table and no more smudging!
Forgive me as i didnt read all od the comments. My question is do you use chalk paint with the general finish/rustoleum products? Or is this whem you use a staim or a paint other than chalk paint. Have you tried these products that you mentioned in this post with chalk paint. Thank you, Jen
P.S. you might have just saved me! Thanks again🤗
Hi Jen! Yes, I use poly with chalk paint in place of wax.
Yes!!!! I have never used wax to finish a piece. Even with a low-traffic piece. The hassle of having to remove it does not appeal! I use FAT Paint top coat which gives a flat finish and a satin polycrylic. 🙂
So if you can’t paint another sealent over the wax, then how do you remove the wax without taking the chalk paint with it?
You can use mineral spirits to strip the wax. Or an easier alternative, some chalk paint brands specifically say you can use their paint over wax once it’s cured. If you used a brand that allows you to do this (Annie Sloan is one) you can paint another coat over the wax, then seal the fresh coat of paint with poly. The paint will adhere properly to the wax and the poly will adhere to the paint, the poly just won’t adhere directly to wax if that makes sense.
Oh goodness gracious!! I just read all the comments about the wax over the AS chalk paint. Here is my question….We are building a new home and I decided I wanted to chalk paint my bathroom cabinets in AS chalk paint. I want to use Emperor’s Silk. Now what should I use instead of wax to seal the paint? Also, in years to come will I be able to paint over them without stripping the old paint color and sealant off?
Thanks for the help😃
Hi Annette! Any water based poly would be suitable. Waterlox would probably be a good choice too. You can paint right over either of those without stripping too!
There were so many questions and comments so this question may have been asked/answered….I like your idea of the poly finish. If I want the antique look of dark wax, do I use a different product before applying the poly finish. (I understand I can’t use the wax on it first.
Hi Kathryn! Yes, you would use a dark glaze in place of the dark wax. Several paint lines carry glaze (check out velvet finishes and fusion to name a couple) or you can even make your own. I’m currently working on a post explaining how to do this and will post it soon :).
The only product we use on our chalk paint is Polyvine Wax Varnish, it gives you that beautiful feel of wax with the durability of varnish.
Several years ago I took ASCP class and painted several small pieces. I now live in FL and want to paint
a dark pine dry sink. The dry sink sits out on our lani and I am concerned about using chalk paint and if I should wax . The piece will not get wet or direct sun. I love chalk paint but hate the waxing. What would you suggest?
A water based poly is a great option for sealing chalk paint on a piece that’s protected from water/sun. I would definitely hesitate using wax on an outdoor piece in Florida, even if it’s not in direct sun. I think a poly would hold up better!
I took a ASCP class several years ago and painted a few small pieces and a dresser. I like the paint but hate the waxing. We now live in FL and I want to paint a dark antique pine dry sink that sits on my Lani. The Lani is screened in and the piece sits out of direct sun and rain. I would appreciate any thoughts in regards to paint and if wax is necessary. Thank you
I agree 100% about the wax! I absolutely hated applying it, especially since my hands would cramp so badly, while doing it. I started using Minwax Polycrylic and so far, love it, especially since it is water based and has easy cleanup.
I’ve been painting for years and applying topcoats always made my palms sweat, especially tables. Here’s what I’ve tried….everything!
Waxing….too much work, hate the reapplying and it’s limitations
Polycrylic….the best way to go. I painted 10 sample boards with Fusions white Mineral paint called Casement. Then I applied different topcoats, and here’s my ranking of the top ones.
#1. Varathanes Nano Defense. (No streaks, matte finish, easy application and awesome durability. You can finish topcoating in a day due it drying fast).
#2. Varathanes Diamond Wood Finish, satin interior (no streaks, fast drying, tough but it only comes in a satin, semi gloss, gloss. No matte finish)
#3. Varathane Diamond Wood Finish Exterior, satin. (All of the above qualities, downside is that it’s shinier, but has excellent protective qualities).
#4. General Finishes, Flat. (Does tend to yellow, and be a bit streaky. The Flat out Flat is very matte and streaks much more).
Here’s they key to application, don’t brush (black foam brushes are cheap, leave bits of debris behind, annoying). Apply using a foam roller, but DONT roll it on. Hold the white foam roller by gripping it and dip it into the topcoat, which is poured onto a plate. Then holding the roller firmly you wipe on the poly in a swipe from side to side. Not only do you cover a larger area but there is no back and forth that would create brush strokes. You have enough time to swipe back, then move on. Do NOT go back over and over, if you’ve missed a spot, wait for the next coat or you’ll muck it up.
If you have a large area like a coffee table or dining table, then I pour the topcoat on in sections and swipe it on quickly. Don’t pour too much as it dries quickly.
I paint with Fusion so no topcoat is required but sometimes on pieces that are high traffic I’ll use a topcoat only on the horizontal surfaces, never vertical.
Btw…Fusions topcoat is #5, a bit streaky/cloudy….but the paint is fantastic.
All these products are water based, never use an oil based one unless it’s wood.
These are FANTASTIC tips, Carolyn!! Thank you for sharing.
I’ve used MinWax water based rub on poly over Annie Sloan chalk paint. It works bequtifully on smaller pieces, but caution when using it on a large table top. I painted a large round cherry table in French Linen with Old White trim and when I used the wipe on poly – it looked awful. Because this table gets a lot of light, it showed every single swirl of the rag. Just awful!
Im new to this chalk paint. Have a kitchen in basement want to paint. Was going to buy Annie Sloan paint. Apply 1, perhaps 2 coats. What should I use as a sealer? I don’t want to reapply wax every year. Will not get used a lot. Thanks
can you use any sort of paint underneath the rust-oleum varathane sealer? or does it have to be chalk paint?
i haven’t tired this one but i have used a polyurethane but find it yellows on light colours.
i am not a fan of wax either!
You can use any paint, it doesn’t have to be chalk paint. If you’re using an oil-based paint it’s best to use an oil based sealer though. A note on the yellowing- Sometimes with a water-based poly you can get yellowing or discoloration soon after it dries. When this happens it’s typically from the poly pulling the wood tannins through the paint and not because the poly itself is yellowing. You can combat this by using a primer under white and light colored paints to seal the wood.
I had recently refinished a piece with black chalk paint and loved it! But, I waxed it and hate the finish. I would like to strip it off and varnish it. What a hassle!
I agree totally about wax, I don’t like it all. I have found a acrylic varnish that I have used for several years now. It is by Modern Masters, and it is called Dead Flat Varnish.
I find it more cost effective then ant Gen Fin products. It’s available on Amazon. I buy it in gallon cans because I paint and sell a lot of pieces. They have smaller sizes and they even have a outdoor version which I haven’t tried but excpect it to live up to the quality of their other products. Because it is super flat it resembles the wax look. It’s super hard and holds up very well and never, never yellows!
I really like deft brushing lacquer it goes on nice and easy you can use a sponge roller. Do three coats sand between coats and for the final coat go over it with a little oil and scrub lightly with some 0000 steel wool. It’ll look great years
after a disappointing outcome with annie sloan white wax over her old violet, i let the wax cure for weeks while figuring out what to do next on a large piece. it’s true that you can repaint over her totally cured wax with her paint! i love the quality and ease of use of annie sloan. so i repainted the piece in french linen and it is gorgeous. no sanding or hassling with even trying to remove the wax. on that piece i’m using rustoleum’s chalked line of clear matte sealer. it’s beautiful and feels like it will hold up. i had wanted to use the rustoleum chalked line of paint too but found the choice of colors undesirable, except for linen white, which is great. so every future piece i do, it’ll be annie sloan paint and rustoleum chalked matte finish for me!
I really want to paint my kitchen cabinets with chalk paint, but I was worried about the durability of the wax dealer, so I’m so glad I came across your article! I’ve been reading comments and now I’m a bit confused lol. Do I need to do something to prep the wood so tanins don’t bleed through? It’s a medium colored wood, like Oak, and the doors have some red painted detailing on them that’s a good 10 years old. And then paint, then add one of the topcoats you mentioned? Should I do a waterproof one?
If it were me I would prime the cabinets just to be safe and for extra durability because cabinets are typically heavy use. Then paint, then top coat. I don’t think you need to go waterproof. Most sealers are water resistant and are fine for cabinets.
Have you or can you use the polyurethane on top of the wax? I just finished a piece of bedroom furniture with wax. But like most husbands, I’m afraid that he will be rough with it.
I don’t use poly over wax. I’ve contacted a few poly manufacturers and they all say wax isn’t a stable enough base for the poly to adhere to permanently so I’ve vinegar tried it. That said, there’s more than one person who’s commented here that they’ve used poly over wax with success. If you give it a shot I’d love to know how it works for you.
I do not agree with your opinion of Annie Sloan Wax. I did my cabinets 2 years ago and used wax. I have not had any problems. I cook at least 5 southern meals a week. I have many items in my home painted and waxed with no problems. I think the issue is that you don’t know how to properly apply the wax. I suggest you read more and investigate more before you take the opinion of one person.
Wax, as everything is a matter of preference, I’ve painted hundreds of pieces of furniture which I sell and I was always disappointed with the results using wax as a sealer plus the amount of effort it took to still have streaks, I tried a class and continued to try and found it was not worth the trouble when there are several phenomenal polycrylic top coats in a wide variety of sheens, my favorite the dead flat. I work with about 40 other artists that refinish furniture and they all prefer water based top coats vs. wax, Annie Sloan’s or any others – I have tried about 3 or 4 other brands. My own research and own trials have shown what works for me, I’m sure it’s the same for others that like wax.
Thanks! Because of your post here & many others I’ve read I am NOT going to use wax on any furniture Tops. Including my kitchen cabinets that I’m preparing now to paint soon!
Hi my name is Adriana, I have become a fan of chalk paint but I use Valspar from Lowes and I love it and their wax you don’t have to work it at all, its a cream like a hair conditioner consistency. And it last for ever and the color does not turn yellow either. you apply it with a regular brush and wipe the excess with a clean lint free rag and that’s all. 🙂
So, I only use Annie Sloane or Maison Blanche chalk paint. I have taken AS classes. Her treatment system has NOT failed me. I finish in her wax and 30 days it cures. I have pieces several years old with the same tremendous luster. I just did a pieces in Maison Blanche, so time will tell. Reviews I read suggest they are comparable. Literally EVERYONE I have spoken to or read says that “other” chalk paints and finishes fail over time. These products are guaranteed.
AS does not disclose her ingredients in her treatments. I suspect because they work and are durable and she would be knocked off immediately should she share her secret. The product has been fantastic. I like Maison Blanche colors a bit more (vibrant) and are versatile for more contemporary pieces, which is my interest.
I would not use other commercial products for the reasons cited in this thread.
Also, I am a working professional, not a chalk paint rep! I highly recommend AS and so fat, MB and save yourself more than a few steps! Happy Creating!
This article was so helpful!! The comments also! We’re actually painting all of our cabinets next week in Annie Sloan paint, a mixture of Pure White and Old White. I came across this article when researching what to use as a top coat. After reading through all of the comments… would it be possible to do 2 light coats of Minwax Polyacrylic so that I don’t experience any yellowing, and then a coat of General Finishes Polyurethane or Varathane Nano Defense? It seems like the Minwax Polyacrylic is the best choice for not yellowing the white paint, but it also seems that some of the -thane products have longer lasting, stronger finishes. I’m thinking maybe I could get the best of both worlds?
Artisan Enhancements clear finish! Does not yellow and is exterior grade. Very durable
Bungalow 47 Clear Finish does not yellow. I did my kitchen cabinets in 4 parts pure white, 1 part old white.
Unfortunately I painted my kitchen cabinets in chalk paint and waxed 4 years ago, along with other pieces. I loved the very smooth finish and look at the time. I get tons of compliments on my cabinets and they have held up really well. Still look like the day we painted. They are beautiful, BUT unfortunately I painted them a cream color and do not like the color anymore and want white. I have a large kitchen and stripping them is going to be a huge project which we are dreading. I will never use wax on anything again!!! I redo a lot of furniture and I’ve had to repaint pieces that have had wax on them. Even after wiping down and removing the wax with mineral spirits and a light sanding your new paint never adheres well. The wax is in the chalk paint. I’ve tried everything. You have to strip for a good strong finish. Such a pain! As much as I redo my pieces and change my color scheme I have found chalk paint and wax is not for me.
I love the way sealing with wax brings out other colors in the paint and gives it that soft look, however I agree I am always nervous about table tops or other high traffic surfaces. I like General Finishes but for convenience (easy to find) I sealed my kitchen chairs with Min/Wax Clear Polycrylic Matte a couple of years ago (over ASCP and some glaze), they are insanely beaten up on a daily basis and the finish looks the same as the day I finished them. No discoloration, chipping nada. I did wait 72 hours before I put the first coat on though. I have finished other pieces with Min/Wax and sold them, I have had no complaints.
I have been painting with chalk paint for about a year now and have liked most of my results. Although I certainly understand the limitations of wax and how much trouble it can be to put on, I don’t see anyone commenting here about how toxic other finishes are! I am content to have to deal with fixing minor blemishes and rewaxing as needed in order to know I am not taking the time to finish these pieces then applying toxic chemicals to them that may off has around my family. I would love to hear if anyone has founda finisher as non toxic as wax that seals better!
I’m completely new to this chalk paint trend. For decades I have always just put on a layer of latex interior paint (usually left overs or cheap mistints from the hardware store) and let it dry. I would then sand the edges if I wanted it to look worn and then used the good old stand by Minwax stain “Early American”, where I would dip a rag in the can and wipe it over the entire piece. I have never had issues with the paint or finish wearing off and rarely sealed the project with any clear coat afterwards. And if I want to change the colour down the road, I can just repaint. So I guess I’m not sure what the difference is with chalk paint – is it a big trend now because of the ingredients in the actual paint (low toxins, etc.) or is there something else that chalk paint can do that regular latex can’t? BTW – I do love all the chalk paint projects I’m seeing and wanted to give it a try but the more I read about it, the more I’m thinking it is less expensive and easier to stick with my old method?? Just curious if I am missing some information about chalk paint.
Hi Astrid! Chalk paint has been marketed as no-prep paint, which is appealing to many people, especially people with no experience painting furniture. It’s true that it doesn’t usually need a primer to adhere to most surfaces, but sometimes it does need primer and/or other work for proper adhesion. There’s absolutely nothing wrong with latex and if you’re comfortable with it I see no reason to change. One thing I do like about chalk paint is if you’re planning to distress a piece, I think it sands and distresses better than any other paint. And if there’s a piece you really don’t want to prime, you can probably get away with it using chalk paint unlike most other paints. But again, latex is a great choice for furniture imo and nothing so special about chalk paint that I think you should totally switch up your game. Hope that helps!
I have a dining room table that I want to paint white. What type of water based top coat should I use that won’t yellow? I plan on putting a primer and paint on before the top coat. Does the type of paint (Latex vs. chalk) or brand of paint decrease the chances of it turning yellow?
Does adding multiple layers of topcoat increase the chances of it yellowing? Thanks!
Thank you so much for this post. I am new to chalk paint, but definitely not to repainting/re-loving furniture. I want to give chalk paint a try, but I could not imagine how it was only sealed with wax??? I always do some type of coat (water-based poly, oil based, glossy, flat… it all depends on the project), and THEN wax. Any good carpenter’s wax will do the trick. It does not have to be the Anne Sloan one. I get beautiful results and have NEVER had a piece of furniture fade, chip, or get water rings etc… You get pieces that you will love forever! I am a firm believer in wax, but only as the very last step after some strong top coat. By the way, those of you asking about the yellowing… Yes, some clear coats might yellow. Wax prevents that! Still use it at the end.
I am very familiar with chalk paint and as I’ve said in other comments, I no longer use wax to seal, but instead water based top coats, however like you I do from time to time use wax as a last step as a ‘polish’ for extra an extra sheen for pieces that I want the top to pop. Just yesterday I waxed over a gel stained dresser top that I did with java gel stain and sealed with a water based top coat – it went on beautifully and it gave it a gorgeous sheen.
Hi Amy,
I was wondering if you have any insight into using Annie Sloan WHITE wax (kind of more recent product) on top of a polyacrylic finish. I refurbished some dining table chairs and using chalk paint and what I am really striving for here is durability, because these is a very large dining set and don’t want to redo it again or at least often. So I decided to skip wax as a sealer and applied three coats of Minwax matte polyacrylic. However, my idea was to add some detailing with white wax, as one would with dark wax, to the nuances of the wood. But after adding a coat of clear wax over the poly, I cannot get the white wax to stick, it just slips right off when you wipe it, and I dunno if I need to let the clear wax cure (i try to use the white wax right after the fresh coat of clear wax bc that is what they recommend with dark wax) or is it that the poly just won’t allow for this wax to stick. This did not happen to me with a sample that had the dark wax over 1 coat of clear wax (which itself was over two coats of poly), but I don’t want a dark wax look for these chairs, so I am just wondering if I should be trying something different to get this white wax to stick. Any experience using Annie Sloan white wax and poly?
So sorry for my late response! I just found a bunch of comments that were stuck in limbo. I’ve never worked with AS white wax but my guess is that your guess about it being an issue between the poly and wax is spot on. Curious what you ended up doing with the chairs?
Not sure if anyone has addressed this issue but there are too many comments and too little time to read them all. I’m a newbie. I’ve only used AS paint and wax and Miss Mustardseeds wax as well but since I’m new, I don’t know if there are any problems with any of my clients’ pieces and I don’t have any high traffic pieces of my own. Why question is: I just recently started to make my own chalk paint. I’m currently working on a mini buffet, which is to be used as a coffee bar at a bakery. It is BRIGHT WHITE and she wants a high shine finish. I’m creating my chalk paint with Calcium Carbonate and it’s very, very chalky (I’m still trying to perfect the recipe). Which top coat would you recommend and would I have to add some white paint to assure that it does not bleed through (it’s cedar an very old). It had so many layers of paint that I had to strip it and it took about 5 coats to stop it from bleeding AND I used a primer!!!
Ana, I’m so sorry I didn’t see your comment earlier. I just found around 50 comments that got stuck in limbo and yours was one of them. I’m curious what you ended up doing with the buffet? Hope it turned out nice!
Hi Amy! It’s totally ok! I wound up using a General Finishes Glossy top coat and I added a tad of pure white chalk paint to it and it’s doing great!!! I’m waiting for the pics from my client and once in receipt, i’ll Post them! Thanks for getting back to me!
I don’t have a website but my FB page is https://m.facebook.com/Born-Again-Furniture-by-AMo-124994071470021/
Going to check out your page today, Ana! Thank you for sharing!
Thank you for this. I am really loving painting everything I can get my hands on. I was so disappointed with my coffee table, because it did just what you described, the table top always looks smudged. I am looking into also painting item to sell ,and would hate to sell something that I would feel is not perfect in my eyes. I am now very excited to try these other products you have mentioned. Thanks again and happy painting.
I used Madison Blanche (Oyster) to paint a table and chairs. I used the General Finishes High Performance to seal it. It made the finish have a yellowing effect. I was going for an old farmhouse look so this was fine but I would like to know how to prevent this in the future or if I need to use different products. I would appreciate any feedback. Thanks!
I’m sorry that happened, Deanna! This seems to be an issue with all poly topcoats- they have the potential to pull tannins from the wood through the chalk paint causing a yellowing effect. It’s hard to predict if or when it will happen and it depends on the wood type, existing finish under the paint, etc. It doesn’t happen to me a lot but when it does it’s definitely frustrating. Here’s an article on Facebook from general finishes with more info if you’re interested: https://www.facebook.com/canarystcrafts/posts/1498969920151751
In the future you can try sealing the wood with a coat of the top coat prior to painting, using it sort of like a primer. Or if the durability issues don’t bother you you could opt for a waxed top coat that is sure to not yellow. I always prime pieces I’m planning to paint white because of this problem and while it doesn’t 100% prevent it I do think it helps. I typically use one of the zinsser primers, but I’m sure there are other good ones out there too. Hope that helps a bit!
Hope you and your family are having a Merry Christmas!
Thanks so much for your reply. I hadn’t thought about a primer but really appreciate your feedback and the link to the article.
I chalk painted my cabinets 3 years ago and finished them with wax. They are holding up beautifully. BUT…I did a 8 step process…I clear waxed, buffed; clear wax, buffed; clear wax, buffed then dark waxed and buffed.
My cabinets have a beautiful finish that if very durable…but it was WORK!
Thanks for this info! Help! I waxed my table legs and 2 chairs. I don’t want to have to re wax so even they will look different I am going to poly the rest of the chairs. When I rub too hard on the painted chairs the paint rubs off too. What should I do about table legs and 2 chairs? Can I get the wac off good enough in a way that I don’t have to rub to hard or use a chemical that removes the paint? Or am I going to have to remove it all and start over?
Hi Sarah! You can use mineral spirits to help strip the wax off your chairs. Or if you used Annie Sloan brand you can actually just wait a few weeks until the wax is cured then paint another layer right over the wax. Then you can poly over the paint. I’ve done this before and didn’t have any issues. It stinks to have to wait for the wax to cure but it’s much easier than trying to strip all the wax. If you have to remove the wax I think you’re going to have a hard time removing it without taking off some of the paint in spots too, so either way you’ll probably have to throw an extra coat of paint on the chairs so they all match.
I had the same problem with wipe-on poly and paint – it stripped it off! Someone told me that I didn’t wait long enough – ie at least 2 or 3 days after paint dries. I’ve been too afraid to try it again although I love wipe- on poly for my sanded and stained dresser tops etc. If I’m not using wax, which i rarely use – only in special cases – I use my tried and true – varythane! Ultra clear! Satin finish. Water based.
Hi Diane! It’s possible the paint hadn’t cured long enough to add the wipe on poly, but my guess is it was an adhesion problem between the wood and the paint that caused it to strip off. And I agree- varathane is a great product!!
Thanks. One day I will try it again on paint that I have let cure longer as it is so easy with no brush marks etc. And leaves a lovely finish!
Thanks for sharing your ideas :-))
I do certainly agree that waxing has a numer of downsides, one being the low durability. Still one should keep in mind that it also offers a number of design options that other sealers don´t. You can e.g. use dark or black wax, either pure or mixed with clear way, to tone done your colour and accentuate mouldings. This is something that particularly old classic furniture profits from. Also some colours would be too striking without this toning-down, even though they also offer a much more dramatic effect later on (especially when combined with gilding wax) than more gentle colours. This particularly refers to Annie Sloan colours, which tend to be very bold, but work out beautifully with coloured wax.
I do not agree with your assessment of not being able to paint over a waxed finish. I repainted a waxed pice that I had done with Annie Sloan paint twice (I just didn´t like the first two colours); both times I just wiped down the piece with rubbing alcohol before painting again to break the wax. The result was very satisfactory and the paint sticks to the chair perfectly. Of course I cannot judge other manufacturers, so this might only apply to Annie Sloan.
Generally I would also recommend to use a poly sealer for surfaces like kitchens or table top, to make them more durable. There are even some manufacturers like Painting The Past, who offer their colours already mixed with a sealer, so that you don´t really have to seal it again. I case of kitchen- or tabletops You can also use an additional sealer to make it absolutely bulletproof :-))
Having said this, I guess the aethetic goal would in the end help you to decide, if you want to accept a lower durability for a wider choice of design options, or if you have to go for a durable finish for the sake of using the piece in a certain environment. Thankfully enough, we have a wide range of options aavailable and we should not limit ourselves to just one manufacturer but rather make use of the choice we have.
Andrea, you have really fantastic points! I have also painted over AS wax with another coat of AS paint and had zero issues. I appreciate you stopping by and commenting!
I will never use wax on a wood piece again. The furniture was sitting where sunlight shone on it and it actually melted the wax finish. It look like something from a dumpster discard.
Oh no! I hope you can fix it fairly easily, Lenna.
It says on their website that the Artisan Enhancements Sealer can seal in the tannins stains on wood if used before painting. Do you know anyone who used it that way? I’ve used the water based version of BIn Shellac with success.
Yes, you can use it as a primer to seal in stains. Other polys will usually do this too. Like you, I also use BIN. IMO it’s the best primer for really stubborn bleed through.
Thank you so much for the time you have invested in creating and replying on this. I am going to try my first chalk paint soon. My plan was to start with my Queen Anne dining set, but I’m going to tackle a small coffee table first to get my nerve up. I have researched and decided on a DIY chalk paint using primer and paint in one with calcium carbonate, and finish it with a Polyvine product. I am so nervous so have looked at a lot of sites. This has been great!:)
Good luck with your first project, Tracy! Great idea to start with a small piece first. Thank you so much for stopping by and commenting :).
Any ideas on how to paint a large piece with dark grey chalk paint. No matter how careful I am when I go to seal the piece with either wax or a poly it steaks. The piece looks great before I seal it. When I asked a person that sold paint they simply said that the darker the color the more apt it is to streak. I never have any problems with the light colors. And yes I apply the wax evenly. Could this be the brand of chalk paint that I am using?
Hi Tina! Darker colors do tend to have this problem regardless of brand. It’s because chalk paint is so porous and it tends to suck up the sealer, sometimes unevenly, and its most noticeable on darker pieces. If you’re sealing with a poly, sometimes mixing a bit of poly with the paint and doing a final coat before sealing it with straight poly will help with that.
Very interesting article. Amy, how do you seal outdoor furniture? I’m pretty new with chalk paint.
Hi Sandy! I personally would suggest using a paint and sealer specifically made for outdoor furniture. I know you can technically use chalk paint for outdoor use, but my opinion is that it won’t hold up nearly as well as outdoor paint. Like everything else, it’s a personal call. If you do decide to use CP, I would still suggest using an outdoor rated sealer. Whatever you do, don’t follow the advice from some to just leave chalk paint unsealed for outdoor use. Chalk paint is extremely porous and holds onto dirt easily. Unsealed chalk paint is guaranteed to look a hot mess in no time, especially if it’s a lighter color.
I really hope someone can help me. To start, I live in Central America and can’t find any paste wax nor crystal clear varnish, poly, etc. I made my own chalk paint with plaster of paris and painted one spare kitchen cabinet door I have. I love the finish and look but now have nothing to seal it with. I am wondering if I use a semi-gloss latex paint along with the plaster of paris can I leave it without a finish coat. If not, my kitchen cabinets will be painted with straight paint. I have searched and searched on the internet for the last 3 days and I am ready to tear my hair out. I can’t find a definitive answer to my question. I am hoping someone can help me. Thanking you in advance for any assistance.
I JUST painted my vanity with chalk paint. Was a little nervous as this was my first experience with chalk paint. Went to wax it and the wax removed some of the paint… :0( I wound up retouching up the paint after waxing, the re-waxing the little areas. (Not sure if that’s a no no but I did it anyhow..) They look good now but I am worried about the durability. CAN I USE THE GF SEALER OVER THE WAX BY AY CHANCE???
Thanks
Hi Anna! If the waxing process removed some of the paint there’s a good chance you had an adhesion problem such as something on the surface of the vanity that wasn’t allowing the paint to fully adhere. It’s fine that you touched it up like you did, but there is a change you could have durability problems with time. GF does not recommend using their sealers over wax, however Artesan Enhancements does have a sealer that can successfully be used over wax, and it’s what I would recommend if you’re looking to add something stronger on top. Good luck!
Thank you for the tip about Artesan Enhancements…unfortunately I looked for it at a few stores with no luck. When I called Home Depot, they said they have Rustoleum Chalk Protective Sealer. Have you heard of this or know if it works over wax??
Thanks again!!!
I don’t know of any other sealer that is recommended by the manufacturer to be use successfully over wax. If there’s not an AE retailer near you it can be purchased from their website. It’s not sold in big retail stores- just small independent retailers and online.
Thank you so much for your advice. It is much appreciated… I will look on line for the AE..
I completely agree about the wax. I have found that it just isn’t a good sealer.. I have too many kiddos for that!
Hi! Thanks for all of your helpful tips. I was wondering if you’ve ever experienced the Annie Sloan soft wax smelling mineraly after applying it and buffing it? I applied it to two night stands (and use Annie’s chalk paint) and now my bedroom (where the stands are sitting) smells like a pile of rocks. Strange I know. Thoughts? Tips? The paint and wax are only about 6 months old. Thanks!!
I haven’t had that happen with wax. I have noticed a smell sometimes with older paint, usually when I’ve dipped a wet brush straight into the can but it always dissipates once dry. I hope the smell goes away!
Hi! I came across your article trying to decide whether to use General Finishes or Verathane clear coat over my painted counters. It looks like you use both products, so I’m curious if you recommend one over the other in regards to quality and applying without streaks? Thanks!
I prefer General finishes and it’s the one I use on 90% of my pieces. I don’t know that it’s better quality, it’s just the one I personally like best and have the most experience with.
Thank you so much for your reply. Do you have any suggestions for how to apply a smooth coat to large flat surfaces and what type of applicator to use?
Thanks for your reply! Do you have any suggestions for how to apply a smooth coat to a large flat surface and what kind of applicator to use? Thanks!
Very sorry I used wax on my first projects. I painted a piece with coco and used a dark wax. Decided later on I wanted a different look, more coastal to go with the new house. Only to find out I had to remove the wax and had to use the recommended odorless mineral spirits. 5 hours of working to get it off. It was not totally odorless and it was more work than the painting two coats the first time. The whole point of chalk paint is ease of use and lack of prep so using wax undoes all of that going forward. I started using a matte water based poly on my later pieces as the wax showed minor scuffs and did not hold up. Why does AS promote wax on their products? It is not durable and it is extremely difficult to remove, not to mention toxic. The matte poly is wonderful and easy to work with, easy to paint over later.
I was thinking of chalk painting my kitchen chairs. A couple of years ago, I primed and painted them with latex paint. I know I have to strip the paint before I use the chalk paint. Will I need a sealant after I use the chalk paint? I plan to also distress the chairs after they’re painted.
You actually don’t need to strip the latex paint as long as it’s not chipping or peeling, it just needs to be clean. The only other reason you may need to strip the paint is if you are planning to distress, you’ll see some of the existing color under the new paint. If that doesn’t bother you it’s fine to just paint over it. You’ll definitely want to seal the chalk paint, I suggest a water based poly. Distress before you seal. Good luck!
Interesting article and I agree that there are options to sealing chalk paint with wax. You do have some inaccuracies in your article however. It is absolutely NOT necessary to reapply wax every few months as you mention. If you have waxed and allowed the finish to cure the recommended 2-3 weeks, your finish is done and sealed. I have painted/waxed many many pieces of furniture over the years incl. dining tables and have never once had to reapply wax.
Regarding not being able to paint over a waxed finish. True that you can’t do it immediately after a new project but a couple of months down the line, assuming you have painted/waxed/cured correctly, all you have to do is repaint. You don’t have to remove wax unless your piece is greasy/tacky to the touch. And even then the step to take is a quick wipe down with mineral spirits, followed by a quick wipe with a damp sponge. Let the piece dry well and then repaint. As you mentioned, people tend to over-wax which can affect the finish. But then again, you can misapply any product incl. a topcoat.
Hi Kim! We may have to agree to disagree on the things you pointed out. I do think it’s sometimes necessary to re-wax, based on how heavily the piece is used, and most wax manufacturers will recommend doing exactly that to remove scuff marks and wear. Perhaps saying every few months could be inaccurate, and it would be better to say as needed since each piece is used differently.
What I said about painting over wax is also absolutely true. Like I mentioned, you can paint over some wax products with some paint products, but if you’re switching to a paint product that’s not made to be used over wax (such as latex paint), you have to remove the wax.
I do appreciate your point of view and thank you for taking the time to comment! Hope you’re having a good weekend!
“handshake” on the agree to disagree 🙂 and for the 2nd point, I thought we were talking about chalk paint which is where my comment centered. Latex over wax would be an issue …. but then, we’d really need to have a debate on latex in general .. haha!
Absolutely on the handshake! And I have a feeling you know more than me about latex paint, so I’ll take a glass of wine and a chat over a debate 😉. Btw, if you happen to have an Instagram or FB page where you share your work, feel free to drop it here. I’d love to follow you!
You are wrong about the wax, it has to be reapplied n about 5 months, I stopped using wax all together for commissioned pieces that I do.
HI, what type of primer do you suggest to use under the chalk plaint?
I love all the zinsser primers. If you’re distressing and want the wood to show through, use the zinsser bulls eye because it dries clear. If I’m not distressing I typically use the multipurpose 123 primer because it’s water based and easy cleanup but it dries white- that’s why I don’t use it when distressing. If you have a stubborn bleeder I like zinsser BIN. It’s shellac based so not as easy to clean your brush but it seems to seal in bleeds the best after a few coats (and it also dries white). Btw, I’m not affiliated with zinsser in any way, I just like their products.
That is so helpful, thank you so much!
Not true!!! When you use it properly wax is the most durable finish, when it’s cured and everything else. So, you misleading people, and everything you said is just a lie!!!!!!
Thanks for stopping by and sharing your opinion, Lejla
I wish I had known about this a few weeks ago! I painted our bedroom furniture with Joanna Gaines chalk paint and my husband has destroyed the night stand already 😢 so sad since it took me so much time to do
Ahh, Kaitlyn, that stinks! I’m not sure which brand of wax you used, but see if it says you’re able to paint over it once it’s cured. If you can, I would throw another coat of paint on it then seal with something stronger. That’s the easiest way to fix it. Good luck!
I soooooo glad I found your blog❣️❣️❣️ I thought I was crazy for not being over the moon about using wax on my projects!!!!! I kept thinking, “its a lot of work for THIS?” I told my daughter, I don’t understand what anyone sees in using wax‼️‼️ I’ve refinished several pieces over the past 30 years and have always been happy how they turned out. With the wax it was a lot of extra time and work. Now I find out that I have to reapply it again at some point, UGH‼️‼️‼️‼️I’m with you, done is done; why waste my time to do it again‼️‼️‼️ Thank you for great information and confirming I’m not coo-coo for the way I feel about using wax❣️❣️❣️❣️
Hi, have you tried valspars sealing wax? The paint lady at Lowe’s sold me some of the valspar chalky fininsh paint and sealing wax for my dining table project. The pamphlet says for extra durability you can go over the wax with polyurathane. I’ve used 2 coats of the wax, but I’m afraid to try the polyurethane on top. I used a water based polyacrylic once and it peeled off. I want this table to last though and I’m wondering if their brand of sealing wax is durable enough for a table top. I brushed on light coats and left it to dry, I did not wipe off excess.
So, I’m still wondering. Do you HAVE to wax or seal the chalk paint. What happens if you put the chalk pain on and leave it as is with no finishers?
You really do need to seal it. It’s extremely porous and sucks up dirt and fingerprints like crazy when not sealed and it doesn’t clean easily. I painted the door going from our mudroom to the garage with chalk paint a few years ago and didn’t have time to seal it right away. Within a couple days it was filthy and I had to repaint it before sealing.
I use wax to create depth. What else could i use to achieve that instead of wax so i can use another sealer? Thank you.
Try glaze! Or a paint wash (basically watered down paint brushed on and wiped off with a rag).
Hi Guys, I am fairly new to using chalk paint, but no stranger to the problems when using wax. So I have recently experimented with various finishes and by far the best result, for me, came from cheap ‘Yacht’ varnish. Gloss or Matt, for a hard as nails finish. I also found that a great distressing effect can be obtained if you omit any form of primer, sand paint to your desired taste and then slap on the varnish, three coats gives a nice depth to the wood. Perhaps I am just lucky with no disasters YET!
Hi,
Thank you for your post. I’ve used Anne Sloan wax in two pieces (a desk and a small breakfast table which have heavy traffic use and it has woked great. I did, hiwever gave it abouth a months time toncure beforenusing for wax to cure. I buff every once and a while and the finish has lasted well for over two years.
I did found that for some pieces the curing period was too long as the pieces needed to be used when completed. I used Fusion though finishing sealer over a white oiece which is not supoosed to yellow, and after 3!weeks,!color has remained perfectly white. This is a new product for me, and long term reaistance to use remains to be
seen. Product was easy to apply (with a damp cloth), finish is nice and satin. If non issues over time, I find a good alternative as drying time is much faster and nobyellowing.
Thank you for your post.
Best
Thank you for your comment, Viviana! I’ve used Fusion paint and sealer on a couple projects recently and I really love it. Like you, it’s a new product for me, but I used it on a buffet in my dining room a few months ago and so far it’s been holding up well. I appreciate you stopping by!
Try acrylic lacquer. It won’t yellow can be sprayed on dries to a flat sheen and is completely repairable and won’t muddy the finish like poly does. Or a conversion varnish. But that should be sprayed and is really not a diy product.
I haven’t read all of the comments so my apologies if someone else has written this. Why, why, why, are you all using chalk paint in the first place??? Annie Sloan brilliantly marketed a product that you could apparently just slap on with zero preparation of your item and then simply brush some wax over, job done! As you have pointed out, however, that is NOT the end of it. Wax needs reapplying, as it always has on brown furniture of old. That’s why some clever person invented sealants!
So, I’m scratching my head in puzzlement now…… you’ve all realised eventually that wax isn’t permanent so have added another layer of painting instead by applying a coat of poly sealant, that may or may not yellow or pull the tannins out of the original wood.
If you’re going to paint the item twice why not simply prime it and then apply a coat of ‘dead flat’ regular paint – eggshell or maybe a satin sheen if you want a slight sheen. (I’m in the UK so don’t know US makes of paint but most of the inexpensive manufacturers here in the UK can supply an ‘eggshell’ finish paint, or check out Farrow and Ball for more upmarket paint)
Job done! Distress it afterwards if that’s your wish.
You wouldn’t dream of painting your household woodwork in chalk paint, (which, after all, is merely wall and ceiling paint with a handful of common chalk chucked in it and then sold at an exorbitant price), so why on Earth would you use it on heavily used items like tables and chairs? Time to stop believing in the King’s Suit of Clothes ladies?