Last week in the newsletter I mentioned we had been getting quite a few questions about using dark wax. It can definitely be tricky when you’re first starting out, so I wanted to share my tips with you.
1. First, and probably most important, I never apply dark wax to naked paint. I always apply a coat of clear wax first. You’ll have more control over the dark wax if you do this. Without a coat of clear wax, the dark stain will absorb right into the paint and you’ll have very little control over how dark it ends up. A layer of clear wax makes it easier to move the dark wax around the piece too. The longer the clear wax has to cure, the less control you have over the dark wax, so it’s best to dark wax over a fresh coat of clear.
2. To give yourself even more control, I like to mix a little clear wax with the dark. I just mix them together on a paper plate with a plastic spoon. It doesn’t really lighten the color of the dark wax, it simply gives you a bit more control when working the wax around your piece.
3. Work it into all the little crevices and grooves. I hesitate to say this, because to me painting furniture is an art form and there’s no wrong way to do art. But I’ve seen a few beginners put dark wax on the raised surfaces only and not get any in the grooves and it just doesn’t look natural. Dark wax looks best when you work it into all the little details and crevices. It should be darker in the crevices and lighter on the raised areas. I personally like to apply dark wax with a rag, but for the tiny details I usually use a cheap chip brush with the bristles cut down a bit. Which brings me to my next tip…
4. Don’t use the same brush to apply clear wax and dark wax. Waxing brushes are expensive and you want to take care of yours. It’s really difficult to get every bit of that brown stain from the dark wax out of your brush. If there’s still some on your brush and you go to clear wax your next piece, there’s a good chance you’re going to transfer some of the dark wax stain onto your gorgeous new piece that you only intended to clear wax. So to make your life easier, just use separate brushes for clear and dark wax. I do not have a fancy, expensive waxing brush for dark wax. I simply use a rag and a chip brush.
5. If your dark wax is going on a little darker than you prefer, you can “erase” some of it with clear wax. This really only works while the dark wax is fresh, and I’m not even sure erase is the right word for it. It will gently lighten the dark wax, but it definitely won’t remove it completely. Just put a dab of clear wax on a rag and rub it over the area where the dark wax is too dark. If you really went crazy with the dark wax and you need to remove a lot of it, your best bet is probably just to sand it off.
Still feeling a little nervous about using dark wax? Here’s a quick step by step:
First, apply a coat of clear wax to your piece.
While the clear wax is still fresh (you can immediately start dark waxing after clear, but waiting a day or two won’t hurt), start applying the dark. Using a plastic spoon, scoop a little dark wax onto a paper plate (about a tablespoon or two to start). Optional: mix some clear wax into the dark (about the same amount or a little less than the dark).
Use a lint-free rag (old cut up t-shirts are perfect) or a waxing brush. I like to apply it in small circles and I’m careful not to leave tracks. By that I mean if you keep circling over the same spot, when you’re done you’ll probably see a brown circle there on your finished piece. Does that make sense? Keep moving around so you’re not going over the same spot in the same direction multiple times, and make sure you’re getting into all the little details. A chip brush with the bristles cut down a bit works well for pushing wax into all the grooves that you can’t reach with a rag.
Work in sections and use clean rags to remove excess wax as you go. It’s okay to leave a little extra in the grooves if you want, it’ll just take longer to cure. Keep wiping with clean rags until the surface is no longer tacky and a clean rag glides smoothly across the surface.
Want it darker? Apply another coat and/or consider not mixing the clear wax into the dark.
Still lost? Email me and I’ll do my best to help you out.
Want to hang out more? We do too! Sign up to get our email updates here.
Or join us on social media: Pinterest, Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, & Google+
You May Also Like:
Chalk Paint Tips For Beginners
Great tips Amy! Thanks for sharing 🙂
Thank you Kendra!
Love your tips! I have a can of dark wax sitting unopened because I’ve been nervous to try it out. Pinned this and I bookmarked it too 😉
You and “nervous” don’t go in the same sentence, girlfriend. I know you’ll find something fab to use that can of dark wax on!
These are some great tips – you answered a couple of questions I had about using it. I have been slow to try it because I just didn’t know how. Pinning for future use. Cathy
I’m so glad, Cathy! It can be a little tricky to use at first but it can really add a lot of character to your piece.
Thanks for the great tips! I’ve always wanted to try using this and this was super helpful!
This is so good to know. I know if I ever have a furniture or paint question I can rely on you to know the answer.
Great tips Amy! I am so timid to use dark wax on anything for fear it will look too dark. I may have to try on a small piece now 🙂
Amy, you are a furniture painting/finishing genius! Every time I read one of your how-to posts, I feel more and more confident in attempting it myself!
Thanks, Sarah! I definitely wouldn’t use the word genius! Mostly I mess up a lot and figure out little tricks by accident :).
Good info. I have yet to get into the dark wax. I want to start out on a small piece like a frame with some details in it before I go all out on a dresser. Sometimes I think if I have something in dark wax it might look “dirty” or ” dingy” and bother me. Have you ever felt that way after you completed a project with dark wax and had to go thru the task of removing it?
Hey Lenore! I haven’t felt that way but I can see how you might think that. I don’t use dark wax often, only on pieces that I’m really going for a worn and aged look on. I think trying it on something small like a frame is a great idea because it’s a bit of a paint to remove if you decide you don’t like it.
Sometimes if I want a very subtle dark wax, I wax with a “dirty brush.” Clear wax your piece and then for your next coat dip your brush first in clear, and then just a very shallow dip on the very end of the bristles into the dark wax, before applying. Another fun thing to make dark wax easier to maneuver is to take a tablespoon or so and mix it with mineral spirits until it resembles pudding. Paint this on and allow to dry before buffing. This technique works best when a darker coverage is desired.
Those are really great tips, Shawna! Thanks so much for sharing.
Amy, Thank you for this great information! I am new to furniture painting! I would like to paint the kitchen and bathroom cabinets in my Florida home! All our trim is white and I would like to paint the cabinets white. They have the grooves and crevices that would look great with the dark wax, but would that look work with white surface?
Hey Julie! It works beautifully on white paint, but I personally wouldn’t use wax on kitchen or bathroom cabinets. If it were me, I’d use a glaze to do the distressed look then seal it with something stronger than wax. Perhaps varathane water-based heavy use formula. If you do a search on my blog for pedestal table I just posted one that I painted white and used a dark glaze over. You don’t have to use the glaze I used in the post. There are lots of different brands out there and you can even make your own by buying a clear/tintable glaze and mixing paint or stain in yourself. Hope that helps and good luck!!
Thank you for quick response! I love the pedestal table you did!
Can you use a clear sealer spray to finish on top of the clear/dark wax finish? Or is there any way to seal the piece to protect it after using dark wax? I’m currently working on a TV stand that is going to get quite a bit of traffic.
Thanks!
Hey Kelci! Unfortunately you can’t spray a poly top coat over wax. What you could do is opt to use a dark glaze instead of a dark wax. It has a very similar finished look and you can poly over a glaze. These aren’t the best photos but I used a dark glaze on this piece to help give you a visual :). http://canarystreetcrafts.com/white-pedestal-table/
Hello! I recently chalk painted my nightstand and I didn’t research and put on the dark wax first, then clear wax. It ended up making it too dark. I tried using more clear wax and buffing out with a rag but that didn’t work. I also tried using lemon furniture oil to get the wax off but that did not work either. Do you have any recommendations on removing wax? It’s completely dry by now so I don’t know that I can fix it. 🙁
If I can’t fix it, I’ll have to do the same thing to my dresser so they match. Ugh. 🙁
Hey Kelsey! You can try using mineral spirits. Mineral spirits will strip the wax from your piece. Some of the dark wax may have stained the paint, but it should help to remove at least some of it. Hope that helps and good luck!!
Thanks for the information! 🙂
After your piece is waxed, do you use any kind of sealer ? I have been ready all your tips and I am also nervous about finishing my dresser.
Hi Debbie! Most (probably all) poly-like sealers will not adhere properly to a waxed surface. You can’t apply anything on top of wax and get lasting results. Wax is a sealer itself, but if you want to seal the surface with something stronger than wax, you’re going to skip the wax step and use something else in its place.
Thank you ! That’s where I’m stuck, just not sure which way to go.
Thank you for this great info! You’re quite a good teacher! You made it clear even for a chalk paint newbie like me!
Thank you, Mary Ann! I’m so glad you found it helpful.
I started waxing a project back in the winter. I ran out of wax and life caught up with me. Now that I have a little more free time, I got the dark wax to finish my project. I asked the stockist if I needed to reapply the clear wax since it had sat so long and she thought I was fine to go ahead with the dark wax. It appears a lot darker than I really want. Is there anyway to fix this on my piece? Would you recommend putting a fresh coat of clear wax on before the dark? I have the rest of the cabinet to finish. Thanks!
I disagree with the advice the stockist gave you. In my experience, you always have more control of dark wax on a fresh coat of clear. Once the clear wax has cured you lose that workability.
While the dark wax is still fresh, put some clear wax on a cloth and rub it over the dark. Have lots of clean rags to wipe. It will work as an eraser and pull up some of the dark. It won’t remove it completely, but hopefully it will lighten it enough. If that doesn’t work you can try hitting it with a sander. It will gunk up your sandpaper but it works. You could also try mineral spirits (I’ve not personally used this method to remove dark wax that’s too dark, so can’t say with experience how it will work). Once you get that section fixed, absolutely do a fresh coat of clear before you continue with dark. If it’s still darker than you want try mixing a little dark wax in with clear to dilute it a bit. I just mix them together on a paper plate with a plastic spoon. Hope that helps and good luck finishing your project!
Could I apply/brush on the clear wax and dark wax over furniture that has been spray painted with a chalky finish paint?
Absolutely!
HI – Thanks for all the information. I have a question as a first time user! I painted some kitchen chairs, used a clear wax first, then dark wax to make them look less “fresh” and more aged. I like the appearance, however the chairs are now very “sticky” to the touch. It seems very odd and I would hate for the wax to stick to guests clothing and stain? I tried to wipe it with a clean rag to “buff” it, like my directions suggested, but it seemed to wipe off all my hard work-dark waxing! I did wait a few days before I tried this buffing technique. Any tips or suggestions?
Hi Denise! It sounds like you have too much wax on the chairs. Buffing is a good idea to remove the excess wax, but you’re right it will change the look of the final finish as it moves and removes the dark wax. It’s possible that with time the remaining wax will cure as is but if there’s a lot left on the chairs it could remain tacky indefinitely.
I was researching Annie Sloane dark wax, and your site came up. Why am I not surprised. Your posts are informative and inspirational. Great tips; thanks for sharing. Now I know why I need to purchase both the clear and dark wax.
Hi! Thanks for your wonderful post, I learned some things I didn’t know. I was under the impression I could apply dark wax over clear wax after several days. That was my plan. I’m doing my bathroom cabinets (there are alot) and am still in the process of waxing. One sink area is done. I was going to apply a mixture of 50/50 dark and clear wax when school started back. I also am waiting on my order of additional clear wax to arrive so I can’t start dark waxing yet anyway. I read that a 50/50 mixture would lighten your dark wax. Was I mis-informed? I am really scared to be honest and my arm is so tired. If I wait 2 weeks will I really have to add a coat of clear wax again? Or could i start with a 75% clear/25%dark wax? Thank you so much!!!
Hi Samantha! It’s absolutely fine to wait before adding the dark wax. Adding it over freshly waxed clear just gives you a bit more control IMO, but there’s nothing wrong with waiting. Mixing clear with dark doesn’t really lighten the color, but it does dilute it a bit so it’s not so intense. It also gives you more control and makes it easier to move the dark wax around your piece more easily.
I know you’ve already started waxing, but I want to add a little more info. There’s nothing wrong with wax, but I personally don’t think it’s a good choice for bathrooms. I have an article with more info on my reasons here if you’re interested https://canarystreetcrafts.com/why-i-stopped-using-wax-to-seal-furniture/.
Again, I’m not saying wax is wrong, I just want you to have as much info as possible before you finish your project. Hope this helps a bit and I’m wishing you luck! Feel free to email me if you have any other questions :).
I found this diy and was so excited! I just did my kitchen table! It turned out so beautifully! I wish I could attach a photo! Thank you!
Thanks so much for the information. This is really helpful! I am working on a dresser right now. It’s painted Paris grey and I out 1 coat of clear wax to seal it. I plan to mix to dark and clear together so it doesn’t get too dark. My question is about wiping clean. When I’ve done other dressers, I used clear wax and used my electric buffer to buff it out and get a nice finish. At what point can I buff with my buffer? Or is it best to just wipe clean with lint free cloths?
Thanks!!
Hi Kait! You can still buff the dark wax but it will most likely pull up some of the dark finish. The longer you let it cure the less stain will come up when you buff it. It might be best to just use a cloth at first then buff once it’s had time to sit for a couple weeks if you want a glossier finish. (Also want to apologize for the late response! My kids and I were sick all last week and I’m just catching up. Wishing you luck with your project!)
I’m going to do a dark wax on a nice dresser. When can I distress..? before or after wax..?
You can technically do either, but I always distress before wax 🙂
Please help. I’m a beginner. My Annie Sloan stockist told me that I would not need to use clear wax if I used a technique involving dark wax and mineral spirits. Did she tell me wrong? I can’t find anywhere online (videos or articles) where it says you can use dark wax without first applying clear wax.
Hi Meredith! You absolutely do not have to use clear wax first if you don’t want to. Dark wax is essentially just clear wax with a colorant added. The reason for using clear first is to create a bit of a barrier so too much of the stain doesn’t absorb into the paint. It makes it a bit easier to control the dark wax too. I’m assuming your stockist was suggesting you mix mineral spirits into the dark wax before applying to thin it out and make it easier to control. It’s definitely not wrong, but I don’t have much experience with that technique myself. If you google mixing mineral spirits into dark wax I think you’ll find a couple tutorials that might be helpful. Wishing you luck with your project!!
HI Amy,
My daughter finished a dresser in Napoleonic Blue and put on dark wax, let it sit overnight, today I buffed it with shop cloths. I buffed as hard as I could as I didn’t care for the look, the dark wax didn’t seem blended in and was streaky looking, perhaps that’s the way it’s supposed to be. Any suggestions as to how to fix the look.
Is sanding a bit a good option.
Marian, I’m just finding this comment! How did you end up fixing the dresser? If I would have seen this earlier I would have recommended using mineral spirits to strip some of the dark wax without damaging the paint. Hope you were able to get it to look how you wanted!
Hello, l Love all of your chalk paint post. I just finished my first piece, clean and dark waxed it, but I love it just as it is, do I have to buff off the wax or can I just let it cure as is? Thank you
Hi Roxana! You can absolutely leave it to cure as is. It might just take a bit longer if the wax is thicker than a buffer piece.
When adding additional layers of dark wax (to darken color on raw wood)….how long do you wait between layers to avoid removing the previous layer? And do you buff between layers or just wipe the excess so that it’s not tacky?
I love the look on my raw wood table, but I’d like it to be a bit darker.